“The wind disturbs the surface of the ocean. If it comes in gusts, it
creates waves that leap with foaming crest and break against one
another. If it is strong and continuous, it chases the waters in long
swells, in waves or surges that advance from the open in parallel lines,
succeed one another with a majestic uniformity, and one after another
rush booming on to the shore. These movements, however tumultuous they
may be, affect only the surface of the sea; thirty meters down the water
is calm, even in the most violent storms.
“In our seas the height of the biggest waves is not more than two or
three meters; but in some parts of the South Sea the waves, in
exceptional weather, rise to ten or twelve meters. They are veritable
chains of moving hills with broad and deep valleys between. Whipped by
the wind, their summits throw up clouds of foam and roll up in
formidable volume with a force sufficient to shatter the largest vessels
under their weight.
“The power of the waves borders on the prodigious. There, where the
shore, rising vertically from the water, presents itself fully to the
assaults of the sea, the shock is so violent that the earth trembles
under one’s feet. The most solid dikes are demolished and swept away;
enormous blocks are torn off, dragged along the ground, sometimes thrown
over jetties, where they roll like mere pebbles.
“It is to the continual action of waves that cliffs are due, that is to
say the vertical escarpments serving in some places as shore for the
sea. Such escarpments are seen on the coasts of the English Channel,
both in France and in England. Unceasingly the ocean undermines them,
causes pieces to fall down which it triturates into pebbles, and makes
its way so much farther inland. History has preserved the memory of
towers, dwellings, even villages, that have had to be abandoned little
by little on account of similar landslides, and that to-day have
entirely disappeared beneath the waves.”
“Stirred up like that, the waters of the sea are not likely to become
putrid,” remarked Jules.
“The movement of the waves alone would not suffice to insure the
incorruptibility of sea-water. Another cause of salubrity comes in here.
The waters of the sea hold in solution numerous substances that give it
an extremely disagreeable taste, but prevent its corruption.”
“Then you cannot drink sea-water?” Emile asked.
“No, not even if you were pressed with the greatest thirst.”
“And what taste has sea-water?”
“A taste at once bitter and salt, offensive to the palate and causing
nausea. That taste comes from the dissolved substances. The most
abundant is ordinary salt, the salt we use for seasoning our food.”
“Salt, however,” objected Jules, “has no disagreeable taste, although
one cannot drink a glass of salt water.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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