The Story of Ancient Irish CivilizationJoyce, P. W. (Patrick Weston)
History
The Story of Ancient Irish Civilization
Joyce, P. W. (Patrick Weston)
Ireland -- Civilization
The beautiful illumination of the Book of Kells, the Book of Mac Durnan,
and numerous other old manuscripts, proves that the ancient Irish were
very skilful in colours: and the art of dyeing was well understood. The
dyestuffs were not imported: they were all produced at home, and were
considered of great importance.
The people understood how to produce various shades by the mixture of
different colours, and were acquainted with the use of mordants for fixing
the dyes. One of these mordants, alum, is a native product, and was
probably known in very early times. Dyeing was what we now call a cottage
industry, _i.e._, the work was always carried on in the house: as I saw it
carried on in the homes of Munster more than half a century ago.
The cloth was dyed by being boiled with the several dyestuffs. The
dyestuff for black was a sediment or deposit of an intense black found at
the bottom of pools in bogs.
A crimson or bright-red colour was imparted by a plant which required good
land, and was cultivated in beds like table-vegetables, requiring great
care. There were several stages of preparation; but the final dyestuff was
a sort of meal or coarse flour of a reddish colour.
The stuff for dyeing blue was obtained from the woad-plant (called in
Irish _glasheen_) after several stages of preparation, till it was made
into cakes fit for use. A beautiful purple was produced from a sort of
lichen growing on rocks, after careful preparation. A still more splendid
purple was obtained from a little shellfish or cockle. This method of
obtaining purple was practised also by the ancient Britons or Welsh; and
by the same process was produced the celebrated Tyrian purple in still
more distant ages.
For sewing, woollen thread was usually employed. Women sewed with a needle
furnished with an eye as at present. From an early time needles were made
of steel, but in primitive ages of bronze. In those days a steel or bronze
needle was difficult to make; so that needles were very expensive: the
price of an embroidering needle was an ounce of silver. The old Irish
dressmakers were accomplished workers. The sewing on ancient articles of
dress found from time to time is generally very neat and uniform: one
writer describes the sewing on a fur cape found in a bog as “wonderfully
beautiful and regular.”
Embroidery was also practised as a separate art or trade by women. An
embroiderer kept for her work, among other materials, thread of various
colours, as well as silver thread, and a special needle. The design or
pattern to be embroidered was drawn and stamped beforehand, by a designer,
on a piece of leather, which the embroiderer placed lying before her and
imitated with her needle. This indicates the refinement and carefulness of
the old Irish embroiderers. The art of stamping designs on leather, for
other purposes as well as for embroidery, was carried to great perfection,
as we know from the beautiful specimens of book-covers preserved in our
museums.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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