the edification of the people." It was the verse beginning "Praised be
my Lord for all those who pardon one another for His love's sake,"
which he had added to his Hymn to the Sun (see p. 79). All listened
intently to the message which so touched the heart of the Podestà that
he flung himself at the Bishop's feet and promised to make amends for
his offence for the love of Christ and the Blessed Francis. The Bishop
lifting him from the ground spoke words of forgiveness and peace, and
then "with great kindness and love they embraced and kissed one
another.""
[Illustration: EAST FRONT OF SAN FRANCESCO]
CONVENTS OF S. QUIRICO AND S. APPOLINARE
Every church and convent wall in Assisi was once adorned by frescoes,
and even now, when time and ill-usage have done their best to ruin
them, it is still possible to come upon delightful specimens of
Umbrian art. But they are so stowed away in out of the way corners
that one hardly likes to pass a door, however poor and uninviting,
without glancing in to see what treasure may be hidden away behind it.
Curiosity was amply rewarded one day while visiting the convent of S.
Quirico which we pass on the way from Sta. Maria Maggiore to S.
Pietro, attracted there by the small fresco of the Virgin and St. Anne
by Matteo da Gualdo over the door. The whitewashed parlour contained
nothing of interest, not even a nun peered through the iron grating,
but a murmur from the attendant about frescoes drew us to a window
where, above the brown-tiled roof under a rough pent ledge, exposed to
rain and wind, was a fresco of Christ rising from the tomb, and four
small angels. It is not perhaps one of Matteo da Gualdo's most
pleasing compositions and might be passed unnoticed in a gallery, but
the thought of the wealth of Umbrian art, when masters left their
paintings over gateways upon city walls, and above a roof where even
the nuns can scarcely see it as they walk in the cloister below, give
it a peculiarly Assisan charm which we cannot easily forget. A few
steps further on, down the Borgo San Pietro, is the large convent of
S. Appolinare, remarkable for its pretty campanile of brick, and a
wheel window above the door. It once possessed many frescoes of the
fourteenth and fifteenth century, but now it is not worth while to
seek admittance for they are much destroyed; some have been ruthlessly
cut in two by lowering the ceiling of the rooms, and only here and
there, where the whitewash has peeled off, faces of Madonnas and
saints look out like ghosts imprisoned in a convent wall.
S. PIETRO
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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