_From Porta Mojano._--(_a_) To follow the path taken by St. Francis,
when carried from the bishop's palace to the Portiuncula (p. 111),
just before his death, we must take the road leading from the gateway
to a small chapel, and turn to the right down a lane marked Valecchio
on the map. St. Francis either passed through Porta Mojano or the
Portaccia (now closed), but from here we follow in his footsteps
straight down the hill to the hamlet of Valecchio, set so charmingly
on a grass plot among the walnut trees, with part of its watch tower
still standing (p. 104). In the plain we come to cross roads; the one
on the left leads to San Damiano in about forty minutes, that to the
right to the leper hospital (now known as S. Agostino), whence St.
Francis blessed Assisi for the last time (p. 111). (_b_) From the gate
a few minutes brings us to a path crossing the fields to the left, to
the old church of S. Masseo built in 1081 by Lupone Count of Assisi to
serve as a chapel to the monastery, now the dwelling place of peasant
families. (_c_) From Porta Mojano a lane leads straight down to the
plain, and just before reaching the high road where it crosses the
railway at right angles, the chapel of S. Rufino d'Arce--the real
Rivo-Torto--is seen in the fields to the left (see pp. 93-95). By the
side of the lane close to the railway line is the chapel of Sta. Maria
Maddalena (see pp. 93-95). This is about half an hour's walk.
_From Porta S. Francesco._--There are several drives. (_a_) Perugia.
(_b_) Bastia, the first station on the railway between Assisi and
Perugia, possessing a triptych by Niccolò da Foligno. A beautiful view
of the river Chiaggio is obtained at the bridge of Bastiola. (_c_) A
road from the Angeli branches off to Torre d'Andrea, where there is a
picture by a scholar of Pinturicchio. But more delightful is the
chapel of S. Simone a little further on, built right in the midst of
the cornfields, whose walls are covered with frescoes of the fifteenth
and sixteenth centuries. (_d_) A beautiful drive is to the Rocca di
Petrignano, a hill-set village above the Chiaggio. To fully recount
its story, the picturesqueness of its rock-cut streets and the charm
of the chapel upon the heights, whose walls are covered from floor to
roof with votive Madonnas and saints, would need a chapter to itself.
It has been enthusiastically described by M. Broussolle in his
_Pélerinages Ombriens_, but it may be well to remark that he calls the
Rocca di Petrignano, for some unknown reason, the Rocca d'Assisi.
(_e_) It is an hour and a half's walk to the church of S. Fortunato,
across the bridge of S. Vittorino, recommended by M. Sabatier in his
list of excursions. The way side chapel of S. Bartolo, with its
interesting apse is passed on the way.
It would be well to get the Italian military map, Fo. 123 (either at
Seeber, Via Tornabuoni, Florence, or at D. Terese, Perugia), if the
pilgrim to Assisi wishes to explore the country round Assisi.
INDEX
A
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