The beautiful groined archway which pierces the _Maison de l'ancien
Greffe_ leads to a region where there are exquisite views: from the
centre of the Great Fishmarket, the backs of the buildings of which we
have just been speaking--they are no less fascinating than their
façades; and from the _Pont de l'âne Aveugle_ the loveliness of the
Roya, and the façade of the _Palais du Franc_ where, in the great
council chamber, is Lancelot Blondeel's famous chimney-piece. The
approach to this building is through the _Palais de Justice_ in the
_Place du Bourg_. Bearing to the right through the Little Fishmarket,
most picturesque, we presently reach the _Marché aux Herbes_, the _Quai
de Rosaire_ and the _Dyver_, where the scenery is no less charming. The
great red house on the further bank of the Roya is the house where
Malvenda hid the Holy Blood, and the majestic spire in the distance the
spire of _Notre Dame_. Almost at the end of the _Dyver_ there is a
little street called the _rue de Groeninghe_, which branches off the
main thoroughfare between two walled gardens. That on the left is the
site of the ancient abbey of Eeckhout, a very peaceful place, where in
summer-time there are roses in abundance and old-world herbs and
flowers, and, on a crumbling wall, snap-dragon. The gabled house
hard-by, with a little Gothic window, was formerly the residence of the
provosts of Notre Dame; the picturesque group of buildings in the
distance, which, amid thick foliage, cluster round its spire, is the old
palace of Louis of Gruthuise; the garden beyond the narrow stream, the
garden of the nuns of St. André. Let the traveller linger awhile in this
tranquil spot and, if he will, for twopence half-penny, refresh himself
with a beautiful bunch of roses.
Continuing his walk along the _rue de Groeninghe_ the tourist will
presently see a wrought-iron grill at the end of an _impasse_ which
gives on the river. Let him approach it and look through the railings.
Here there is a nook which strangers rarely find; many who have lived in
the city for years do not know of it, and yet it is perhaps the most
beautiful of all the beautiful spots in Bruges. To discover this
priceless jewel is the main object of our journey. Here the Roya is
often a rushing torrent. On one side of the stream, rising clean out of
the water, is the oldest wing of the _Gruthuise_; on the other a walled
garden with lofty trees spreading their branches over the river which,
to the right, disappears beneath an archway piercing an old house, once
part of the palace; in the near background, immediately facing the
grill, is the choir of Notre Dame with its grove of flying buttresses,
and beyond, towering high above all, the majesty of its steeple--the
grandest and the fairest thing in brick or stone which the genius of man
has yet created. It was from this lovely spot, or rather a few yards
higher up stream, that Mr. Railton took the beautiful sketch of the
_Hôtel Gruthuise_ which appears on p. 287.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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