she would have lost a very beautiful specimen of early transition work,
perhaps the most beautiful in the Low Countries.
[33] It was made a parish church in 1210. Previous to this date it was a
chapel of ease to Saint Gudule's.
The plan of the nave of _Notre-Dame de la Chapelle_ is very similar to
that of the Sablon, but it is a longer and broader and higher building,
the columns are bolder, the mouldings richer, and the capitals are more
elaborately and more delicately carved. If the Sablon church could be
re-invested with the gold and colour which, we believe, it originally
possessed, its glory would be outshone by the greater glory of the bare
walls and the white windows of _Notre-Dame de la Chapelle_. For this
church, too, has been scraped, and no vestige of its ancient stained
glass remains. The old story: the Calvinist, the whitewasher, and the
restorer. There are still, however, some faint traces of fresco work:
there is a ruddy glow on one of the massive columns which separate the
south transept from the outer south aisle, which, if one steadily gazes
at it, presently assumes the shape of an aureoled figure draped in
crimson robes; and here and there on the walls there are large patches
of a delicate hue, like the tint of faded rose leaves. At first one
imagines that they are patches of that beautiful pink stone--a species
of porphyry--with which so many of the churches in the Rhine Valley are
built, between Mainz and Coblenz, but on closer inspection it will be
found that they are remnants of mural painting.
The removal of the whitewash from this church took place at a
sufficiently distant date for that cunning illuminator, Time, who works
swiftly nowadays in our smoky northern cities, to accomplish something
in the Church of Notre Dame of which he need not be ashamed. The
_glacis_ with which he has enamelled the bare stone in nave and aisle
and transept, if it is not as brilliant as the blue, the vermilion, the
burnished gold with which John van Eyck or Roger Van der Weyden would
have adorned it, is at least more beautiful and more lasting than the
pigments which would have been employed if any modern master-painter had
taken the matter in hand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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