The Church of Saint Dymphna, in the little town of Gheel, in the midst
of the pine woods and heather of the Campine country, is well worth
visiting. It was founded by the Berthouts, lords of Mechlin, somewhere
about 1250, and was not finished until the closing years of the fourteen
hundreds. It is a large cruciform building with single aisles,
well-marked transepts, and an apsidal choir surrounded by side chapels.
Undoubtedly a noble structure, but not, from an architectural point
of view, amongst the most beautiful churches of Belgium; it is chiefly
interesting on account of its mural paintings and its ancient
altar-pieces, carved in wood or sculptured in stone and richly
illuminated. The fresco above the chancel arch--a Last Judgment--is
particularly fine, both in colour and composition. It was discovered
some twelve or thirteen years ago, dates apparently from the close of
the fourteen hundreds, and is fairly well preserved; whilst the reredos
of the high-altar--a triptych with scenes from the life of Saint
Dymphna, sculptured in high relief and sheltered by an elaborate canopy
of rich flamboyant work, most delicately carved--is of its kind unique.
It dates from the early fifteen hundreds. It would be hard to find in
Belgium or elsewhere a more beautiful contemporary specimen of this kind
of work. The sculptors of Brabant excelled in work of this kind, and
here we have one of their masterpieces; it was designed and carved by an
Antwerp man.
In the Church of Our Lady and Saint Martin at Alost, a better known and
more accessible place, we have another grand old building. It dates from
the close of the fourteen hundreds. It consists of a choir and
ambulatory, transepts, and three bays of a nave. It is a typical Brabant
church, and, if it were completed, would be one of the largest and most
beautiful in Belgium. Some very interesting mural paintings have quite
recently been discovered here. Alost is a very prosperous, pushing
place, and almost all its beauty has been improved away, but the
traveller in search of the picturesque will find something to console
him besides Saint Martin's Church: in the market-place there are some
ancient municipal buildings which date from the twelve hundreds, and if
he look about intelligently he will perhaps find something more.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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