The interior is in the simple Romanesque manner, and, in spite of base
uses to which the place is now put, it remains impressive by virtue of
the sixteen massive piers which support the nave and aisles, which have
been simple always, and remain grand in their ruin.
Two early square crypts under the transepts are worth seeing. For the
rest, of what once was, I need only mention the wooden jubé, carved by
P. Courtier, on which Jehan de Beauce had also done some work. Among the
carvings, it is said, was one which represented a pig churning
butter--an epigram in stone against notorious heretics, for Calvin is
frequently treated as a pig in this sort of imagery.
CHAPTER X
_Mathurin Regnier and the Renaissance at Chartres_
‘J’ai vécu sans nul pensement
Me laissant aller doucement
A la bonne loi naturelle;
Et si m’étonne fort pourquoi
La Mort daigna penser à moi
Qui ne pensai jamais à elle.’
_Epitaph of Régnier._
Unlike the English, who, in public, prefer to ignore genius, the French
provincials, when they have any great men born within the borders of
their town, are not ashamed to honour them. They erect monuments easily,
and it even occurs to them to call their streets after the names of
great writers. In Chartres you have the Rue Félibien[92] and the Rue
Régnier,[93] with the house in which Mathurin Régnier was born.
God has made the men of La Beauce in the image of the soil whence they
have sprung. They have the regularity, the monotony and the hardness of
their native land. They are without passion or imagination, cold and
avaricious, and their women are like them. Their wit, when they have
any, is of the kind that delights in carping, ironical raillery. Their
minds, when they are developed, are cast in a logical and scientific
mould. Therefore it is that the representative writers of the sixteenth
and seventeenth centuries at Chartres are Pierre Nicole, the moralist
and theologian of the Port Royal School (_Essais de Morale_); Michel
Félibien, the critical and scientific historian of Paris (_Histoire de
la Ville de Paris_); the cold, but elegant, courtier poet, Philippe
Desportes, and his nephew, Mathurin Régnier, the creator of French
satire (1573-1613).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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