To the north of Trinity churchyard are the Cathedral ruins. Little more
than the bases of a few fine pillars are left of the once splendid
minster, dedicated to S. Mary, S. Peter, S. Osburg, and All Saints.
From the gates of Trinity church you pass the top of the picturesque
Butcher Row, and, if time does not fail you, may turn down Cross
Cheaping--alas that the cross should be no longer there!--till you come
to the Old Grammar School, at the corner of Hales Street. This was the
ancient home of the Hospitallers, who tended the infirm and sick, but
was converted after the Reformation into a free grammar school. It is
now a parish room; but round the walls of the ancient chapel of the
Hospitallers are the old stalls they once occupied, cut and hacked by
many generations of schoolboys. The east window is a fine specimen of
nearly flamboyant tracery. Here Dugdale received his education; also
the Davenports and a great many more who have never risen to fame in
the world. Mr Tovey, father of Milton's Cambridge tutor, and Philemon
Holland, the "translator-general of his age," were masters here.
On returning up the Broadgate to the cross roads give a glance at the
authentic "Peeping Tom" looking out of a window in the top storey of
the King's Head Inn. It is a full-length wooden statue of a man in
armour, with helmet, greaves, and sandals; the arms are cut off at the
elbows. What the statue anciently represented is, I believe, unknown.
The turning to the right, Smithford Street, leads to S. John's
Church, another building raised to the glory of God and the guild
of the Holy Trinity, S. Mary, S. John Baptist, and S. Catherine.
Nothing of the present church, built, it may be remembered, in some
sort to commemorate the king's victory at Sluys, is earlier than
1357, for the first church, begun in 1345 and consecrated in 1350,
disappeared before the more ambitious plans of a later time. Prayers
were said therein for Isabella's "dear lord Edward," at whose tomb
at Gloucester Cathedral so many pilgrims paid their devotions, to the
no small gain of the ecclesiastics of that place. The new church at
Bablake owed its south aisle--still called after his name--to William
Walscheman and Christiana his wife, which Walscheman is described as
"valet" (vadlettus) to Queen Isabell, and had of her gift control
over the Drapery, where vent was made of "foreign" cloth brought to
be sold within the city. The south (Walscheman's) aisle and the north
clear-story are the oldest portions of the now existing building, the
south clear-story, which is of different pattern, is not earlier than
the fifteenth century, though it contrasts very favourably with the
scheme employed both at Trinity and S. Michael's.[747] Off the north
chancel-aisle was a hermitage, whereof traces have been found on the
site of the present vestry. The church is small, the nave being but of
three bays' length, but it is lofty and of fine proportion. The modern
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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