At the beginning of the Via Gondi, adjoining the custom-house and now
incorporated in the Palazzo Vecchio, was the palace of the Captain,
the residence of the Bargello and Executor of Justice. It was here
that the Pazzi conspirators were hung out of the windows in 1478; here
that Bernardo del Nero and his associates were beheaded in 1497; and
here, in the following year, the examination of Savonarola and his
adherents was carried on. Near here, too, stood in old times the
Serraglio, or den of the lions, which was also incorporated by Vasari
into the Palace; the Via del Leone, in which Vasari's rather fine
rustica façade stands, is named from them still.
The Piazza saw the Pisan captives forced ignominiously to kiss the
Marzocco in 1364, and to build the so-called Tetto dei Pisani, which
formerly stood on the west, opposite the Palace. In this Piazza, too,
the people assembled in parliament at the sounding of the great bell.
In the fifteenth century, this simply meant that whatever party in the
State desired to alter the government, in their own favour, occupied
the openings of the Piazza with troops; and the noisy rabble that
appeared on these occasions, to roar out their assent to whatever was
proposed, had but little connection with the real People of Florence.
Among the wildest scenes that this Piazza has witnessed were those
during the rising of the Ciompi in 1378, when again and again the
populace surged round the Palace with their banners and wild cries,
until the terrified Signoria granted their demands. Here, too, took
place Savonarola's famous burnings of the Vanities in Carnival time;
large piles of these "lustful things" were surmounted by allegorical
figures of King Carnival, or of Lucifer and the seven deadly sins,
and then solemnly fired; while the people sang the _Te Deum_, the
bells rang, and the trumpets and drums of the Signoria pealed out
their loudest. But sport of less serious kind went on here
too--tournaments and shows of wild beasts and the like--things that
the Florentines dearly loved, and in which their rulers found it
politic to fool them to the top of their bent. For instance, on June
25th, 1514, there was a _caccia_ of a specially magnificent kind; a
sort of glorified bull-fight, in which a fountain surrounded by green
woods was constructed in the middle of the Piazza, and two lions, with
bears and leopards, bulls, buffaloes, stags, horses, and the like were
driven into the arena. Enormous prices were paid for seats; foreigners
came from all countries, and four Roman cardinals were conspicuous,
including Raphael's Bibbiena, disguised as Spanish gentlemen. Several
people were killed by the beasts. It was always a sore point with the
Florentines that their lions were such unsatisfactory brutes and never
distinguished themselves on these occasions; they were no match for
your Spanish bull, at a time when, in politics, the bull's master had
yoked all Italy to his triumphal car.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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