Santa Croce is, in the words of the late Dean of Westminster, "the
recognised shrine of Italian genius." On the pavement beneath our
feet, outstretched on their tombstones, lie effigies of grave
Florentine citizens, friars of note, prelates, scholars, warriors; in
their robes of state or of daily life, in the Franciscan garb or in
armour, with arms folded across their breasts, or still clasping the
books they loved and wrote (in this way the humanists, such as
Leonardo Bruni, were laid out in state after death); the knights have
their swords by their sides, which they had wielded in defence of the
Republic, and their hands clasped in prayer. Here they lie, waiting
the resurrection. Has any echo of the Risorgimento reached them? In
their long sleep, have they dreamed aught of the movement that has led
Florence to raise tablets to the names of Cavour and Mazzini upon
these walls? The tombs on the floor of the nave are mostly of the
fourteenth and fifteenth centuries; the second from the central door
is that of Galileo dei Galilei, like the other scholars lying with his
hands folded across the book on his breast, the ancestor of the
immortal astronomer: "This Galileo of the Galilei was, in his time,
the head of philosophy and medicine; who also in the highest
magistracy loved the Republic marvellously." About the middle of the
nave is the tomb of John Catrick, Bishop of Exeter, who had come to
Florence on an embassy from Henry V. of England to Pope Martin V., in
1419. But those on the floor at the end of the right aisle and in the
short right transept are the earliest and most interesting to the
lover of early Florentine history; notice, for instance, the knightly
tomb of a warrior of the great Ghibelline house of the Ubaldini, dated
1358, at the foot of the steps to the chapel at the end of the right
transept; and there is a similar one, only less fine, on the opposite
side. Larger and more pretentious tombs and monuments of more recent
date, to the heroes of Italian life and thought, pass in series along
the side walls of the whole church, between the altars of the south
and north (right and left) aisles.
[Illustration: SANTA CROCE]
Over the central door, below the window whose stained glass is said to
have been designed by Ghiberti, is Donatello's bronze statue of King
Robert's canonised brother, the Franciscan Bishop St. Louis of
Toulouse. This St. Louis, the patron saint of the Parte Guelfa, had
been ordered by the captains of the Party for their niche at San
Michele in Orto, from which he was irreverently banished shortly after
the restoration of Cosimo dei Medici, when the Parte Guelfa was forced
to surrender its niche. On the left of the entrance should be
noticed with gratitude the tomb of the historian of the Florentine
Republic, the Italian patriot, Gino Capponi.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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