A passage leads down two flights of steps, with occasional glimpses
of the Boboli Gardens, through corridors of Medicean portraits,
Florentine celebrities, old pictures of processions in piazza, and the
like. Then over the Ponte Vecchio, with views of the Arno on either
hand as we cross, to the Uffizi.
* * * * *
Behind the Pitti Palace are the delicious Boboli Gardens, commenced
for Duke Cosimo I., with shady walks and exquisitely framed views of
Florence. In a grotto near the entrance are four unfinished statues by
Michelangelo; they are usually supposed to have been intended for the
tomb of Julius II., but may possibly have been connected with the
projected façade of San Lorenzo.
Nearly opposite the Palazzo Pitti is the Casa Guidi, where the
Brownings lived and wrote. Here Elizabeth Barrett Browning died in
June 1861, she who "made of her verse a golden ring linking England to
Italy"; these were the famous "Casa Guidi windows" from which she
watched the liberation and unification of Italy:--
"I heard last night a little child go singing
'Neath Casa Guidi windows, by the church,
_O bella libertà, O bella!_--stringing
The same words still on notes he went in search
So high for, you concluded the upspringing
Of such a nimble bird to sky from perch
Must leave the whole bush in a tremble green,
And that the heart of Italy must beat,
While such a voice had leave to rise serene
'Twixt church and palace of a Florence street."
The church in question, San Felice, contains a good picture of St.
Anthony, St. Rock and St. Catherine by some follower of Botticelli and
Filippino Lippi; also a Crucifixion of the school of Giotto. Thence
the Via Mazzetta leads into the Piazza Santo Spirito, at the corner
of which is the Palazzo Guadagni, built by Cronaca at the end of the
Quattrocento; with fine iron work, lantern holders and the like, on
the exterior.
The present church of Santo Spirito--the finest Early Renaissance
church in Florence--was built between 1471 and 1487, after
Brunelleschi's designs, to replace his earlier building which had been
burned down in 1471 on the occasion of the visit of Galeazzo Maria
Sforza to Lorenzo the Magnificent and his brother. It is a fine
example of Brunelleschi's adaptation of the early basilican type, is
borne upon graceful Corinthian columns and nobly proportioned. The
octagonal sacristy is by Giuliano da San Gallo and Cronaca, finished
in 1497, and the campanile by Baccio d'Agnolo at the beginning of the
sixteenth century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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