The gates and walls of Oltrarno were built between 1324 and 1327, in
the days of the Republic's great struggle with Castruccio
Interminelli. Unlike those on the northern bank, they are still in
part standing. There are five gates on this side of the river--the
Porta San Niccolò, the Porta San Miniato, the Porta San Giorgio, the
Porta Romana or Por San Piero Gattolino, and the Porta San Frediano.
It was all round this part of the city that the imperial army lay
during the siege of 1529 and 1530.
On the east of the city, on the banks of the Arno, rises first the
Porta San Niccolò--mutilated and isolated, but the only one of the
gates that has retained a remnant of its ancient height and dignity.
In a lunette on the inner side is a fresco of 1357--Madonna and Child
with Saints, Angels and Prophets. Around are carved the lilies of the
Commune. On the side facing the hill are the arms of the Parte Guelfa
and of the People, with the lily of the Commune between them. Within
the gate the Borgo San Niccolò leads to the church of San Niccolò,
which contains a picture by Neri di Bicci and one of the Pollaiuoli,
and four saints ascribed to Gentile da Fabriano. It is one of the
oldest Florentine churches, though not interesting in its present
state. There is an altogether untrustworthy tradition that
Michelangelo was sheltered in the tower of this church after the
capitulation of the city, but he seems to have been more probably in
the house of a trusted friend. Pope Clement ordered that he should be
sought for, but left at liberty and treated with all courtesy if he
agreed to go on working at the Medicean monuments in San Lorenzo; and,
hearing this, the sculptor came out from his hiding place. It may be
observed that San Niccolò was a most improbable place for him to have
sought refuge in, as Malatesta Baglioni had his headquarters close by.
Beyond the Porta San Niccolò is the Piano di Ripoli, where the Prince
of Orange had his headquarters. Before his exile Dante possessed some
land here. It was here that the first Dominican house was established
in Tuscany under St Dominic's companion, Blessed John of Salerno. Up
beyond the terminus of the tramway a splendid view of Florence can be
obtained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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