To the north of the city rises Fiesole on its hill, of which the
historical connection with Florence has been briefly discussed in
chapter i. At its foot stands the Dominican convent, in which Fra
Giovanni, whom we know better as the Beato Angelico, took the habit of
the order, and in which both his brother, Fra Benedetto, and himself
were in turn priors. Savonarola's fellow martyr, Fra Domenico da
Pescia, was likewise prior of this house. The church contains a
Madonna by Angelico, with the background painted in by Lorenzo di
Credi (its exquisitely beautiful predella is now one of the chief
ornaments of the National Gallery of London), a Baptism of Christ by
Lorenzo di Credi, and an Adoration of the Magi designed by Andrea del
Sarto and executed by Sogliani. A little to the left is the famous
Badia di Fiesole, originally of the eleventh century, but rebuilt for
Cosimo the Elder by Filippo Brunelleschi. It was one of Cosimo's
favourite foundations; Marsilio Ficino's Platonic Academy frequently
met in the loggia with its beautiful view towards the city. In the
church, Lorenzo's second son, Giovanni, was invested with the
Cardinalate in 1492; and here, in 1516, his third son, Giuliano, Duke
of Nemours, the best of the Medici, died. On the way up to Fiesole
itself is the handsome villa Mozzi, built for Giovanni di Cosimo de'
Medici by Michelozzo. It was in this villa that the Pazzi had
originally intended to murder Lorenzo and the elder Giuliano, but
their plan was frustrated by the illness of Giuliano, which prevented
his being present.
In Fiesole itself, the remains of the Etruscan wall and the old
theatre tell of the classical Faesulae; its Tuscan Romanesque Duomo
(of the eleventh and twelfth centuries) recalls the days when the city
seemed a rival to Florence itself and was the resort of the robber
barons, who preyed upon her ever growing commerce. It contains
sculptures by Mino da Fiesole and that later Fiesolan, Andrea Ferrucci
(to whom we owe the bust of Marsilio Ficino), and a fine terracotta by
one of the Della Robbias. From the Franciscan convent, which occupies
the site of the old Roman citadel, a superb view of Florence and its
valley is obtained. From Fiesole, towards the south-east, we reach
Ponte a Mensola (also reached from the Porta alla Croce), the Mensola
of Boccaccio's _Ninfale fiesolano_, above which is Settignano, where
Desiderio was born and Michelangelo nurtured, and where Boccaccio had
a podere. The Villa Poggio Gherardo, below Settignano, shares with the
Villa Palmieri below Fiesole the distinction of being traditionally
one of those introduced into the _Decameron_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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