The battlefield of Campaldino lies beyond Poppi, on the eastern side
of the river, near the old convent and church of Certomondo, founded
some twenty or thirty years before by two of the Conti Guidi to
commemorate the great Ghibelline victory of Montaperti, but now to
witness the triumph of the Guelfs. The Aretines, under their Bishop
and Buonconte da Montefeltro, had marched up the valley along the
direction of the present railway to Bibbiena, to check the ravages of
the Florentines who, with their French allies, had made their way
through the mountains above Pratovecchio and were laying waste the
country of the Conti Guidi. It was on the Feast of St. Barnabas, 1289,
that the two armies stood face to face, and Dante riding in the
Florentine light cavalry, if the fragment of a letter preserved to us
by Leonardo Bruni be authentic, "had much dread and at the end the
greatest gladness, by reason of the varying chances of that battle."
There are no relics of the struggle to be found in Certomondo; only a
very small portion of the cloisters remains, and the church itself
contains nothing of note save an Annunciation by Neri di Bicci. But
about an hour's walk from the battlefield, perhaps a mile from the
foot of the hill on which Bibbiena stands, is a spot most sacred to
all lovers of Dante. Here the stream of the Archiano, banked with
poplars and willows, flows into the Arno; and here, at the close of
that same terrible and glorious day, Buonconte da Montefeltro died of
his wounds, gasping out the name of Mary. At evening the nightingales
are loud around the spot, but their song is less sweet then the
ineffable stanzas in the fifth canto of the _Purgatorio_ in which
Dante has raised an imperishable monument to the young Ghibelline
warrior.
But, more famous than its castles or even its Dantesque memories, the
Casentino is hallowed by its noble sanctuaries of Vallombrosa,
Camaldoli, La Verna. Less noted but still very interesting is the
Dominican church and convent of the Madonna del Sasso, just below
Bibbiena on the way towards La Verna, hallowed with memories of
Savonarola and the Piagnoni, and still a place of devout pilgrimage to
Our Lady of the Rock. There is a fine Assumption in its church,
painted by Fra Paolino from Bartolommeo's cartoon. Vallombrosa and
Camaldoli, founded respectively by Giovanni Gualberto and Romualdus,
have shared the fate of all such institutions in modern Italy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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