'However great the number of soldiers and strangers that enters or leaves the city at any hour of the day or night, they may turn in there if they please, and refresh themselves according to their inclination; so that the former have no occasion to fast too long, or the latter to leave the city without dining. Those who wish to indulge themselves would not desire a sturgeon, or a bird of Africa, or the godwit of Ionia, when the delicacies that are to be found there are set before them. This, indeed, is the public cookery, and is very convenient to the city, and a distinguishing mark of civilization.' Mr. Riley points out in his Introduction to the _Liber Custumarum_ that the _Coquina_ of Fitz-Stephen was in reality a Cook's Row, not merely a solitary cookshop. In Fitz-Ailwyne's Second Assize (1212) the cookshops on the Thames were ordered to be whitewashed and plastered and the inner partitions to be removed, from which it would appear that lodging-rooms had been 'constructed for the harbouring of guests and travellers in contravention of the city regulations, which at all times during the thirteenth and two succeeding centuries strictly forbade cooks and pie-bakers to keep hostels for the entertainment of guests. In the fourteenth century, however, most of these cookshops had made way for genuine hostels and herbergeries,--to be kept only by freemen, and on no account by foreigners,--though we find mention made of one or two cookshops lingering on the city margin of the Thames so late as the reign of Edward the Third.'[121] Mr. Riley adds in his glossary: 'To the celebrity which London gained at an early period for its cookshops its citizens were not improbably indebted for their nickname of 'cockney,' one which they have retained throughout England to the present day. The earliest recorded instance of its use is probably of this same period; the rhyme uttered, according to Camden, by Hugh Bigot, Earl of Norfolk, in reference to Henry II., the capital of whose English dominions was London:-- 'Were I in my castle of Bungay, Upon the river of Waveney, I would no care for the King of Cokenay.'[122] 'Keepers of wine taverns and ale-houses and victuallers (who merely sold provisions) do not appear to have lodged their guests any more than the cooks.' 'The persons whose business it was to receive guests for profit, appear to have been divided into two classes, the "Hostelers" and the "Herbergeours." The line of distinction between these two classes is not very evident ... but it seems not improbable that it consisted in the fact that the former lodged and fed the servants and horses of their guests, while the latter did not. At all events, hostelers are mentioned as supplying hay and corn for horses, but herbergeours never.' Hostelers were also forbidden to sell drink and victuals to any other than their guests.[123] The established charge for a night's lodging about the time of Henry IV. was one penny per night.