There they sat, side by side, hour after hour, old and young, full of
hope and fun and care. Some watched the scenery; others, the horses. All
asked questions—some of them intelligent and well-conceived, some naïve,
and still others ludicrous. They were usually addressed to the driver,
as though skill in handling horses and familiarity with the area gave
authority. Unfortunately, few drivers understood what they daily saw;
still, as a defense against frustration, many acquired a knowing air.
Great guesses were made, and occasionally the tourists were deliberately
misled. Generally the driver’s observations were offered in a spirit of
fun to keep the folks from drooping. A few examples have been recorded.
Driving among the Hot Springs on the Mammoth Terraces, one guide
shouted, “Them as likes their bath hot goes in on the left, and them as
likes it cold goes in on the right, and them as likes it middlin’ goes
in the middle.”[228]
At Norris Geyser Basin the following conversation was heard: One tourist
speaking to another, “If we’re too late to see the Monarch Geyser erupt
tonight, we’ll go over and see him before breakfast.” To which the
driver replied, “No you can’t, the Monarch Geyser is a monarch up here
in the Park. You can’t go see him when you get ready; you’ve got to go
when he’s ready.”[229]
One Münchausen-minded guide informed his passengers that any geyser
water, when bottled, retained a strange sympathy with its water nymph,
so that when the geyser erupted the water became violently agitated; in
one instance a bottle was shattered incident to a particularly powerful
eruption! Many such stories were told by “Buckskin Charley,” “Yankee
Jim,” “Billy” Hofer, and their compatriots. Rudyard Kipling left this
description of Yankee Jim:
Yankee Jim was a picturesque old man with a talent for yarns that
Ananias might have envied.... Yankee Jim saw every one of my tales and
went fifty better on the spot. He dealt in bears and Indians—never
less than twenty each.[230]
[Illustration: Courtesy Northern Pacific Ry.
_“Yankee Jim”—James George_]
James George, better known as “Yankee Jim,” was a pioneer hunter and
trapper who staked his claim in Yankee Jim Canyon of Yellowstone River,
north of Cinnabar and Gardiner. He shrewdly built twenty-seven miles of
toll road through the only available pass. Yankee Jim delighted in
joshing the lady members of early parties concerning the prospects of
bestowing a bit of affection upon him in lieu of the tolls. Little is
known concerning his success in that direction, but he dealt effectively
with the Northern Pacific Railroad in the matter of a right of way
through his canyon.
As time passed, many people who were beyond the “gape-and-run” variety
complained about the lack of a dependable source of information. The
quips of guides who did not know a marmot from a cony actually
displeased them. However, there were occasions when even these talkative
fellows had the good taste to be silent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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