Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
The outward form of the church—the large Romanesque style—is in keeping
with that great patriotic thought and resolve. It is essentially of the
soil. The grand curves of the arches, the massive pillars, the sense of
space and freedom seem the proper expression of the mediæval Lombard
character, in their union of Latin breadth and clearness with the
picturesque ruggedness, and the rich effects of light and shade of
Northern building. Above all, the material—brick and stone, that
fortunate combination which produces such glory and enchantment of
colour—is peculiarly Lombard. The effect of it in St. Ambrogio is most
beautiful and satisfying. Even the newness of much of the brick at the
present time—crude evidence of restoration—cannot destroy the charm.
[Illustration: SIDE AISLE OF ATRIUM, ST. AMBROGIO.]
[Illustration:
CAPITAL IN ATRIUM OF
ST. AMBROGIO.
]
The atrium or forecourt is surrounded on three sides by arcades
supported on massive pillars. It is rather later in date than the façade
of the church, which rises up in a wide gable, pierced with lofty
round-headed openings above the shadow of the narthex or portico,
triple-arched, which forms the eastern side of the atrium. On either
hand of the church rises a campanile of characteristic Lombard type. The
lower one is the Monks’ Tower, and dates from the eighth or ninth
century. It is probably the first thing which the Benedictines built on
entering into possession of the church in 783, bells being a necessity
of the monastic ritual. The tall tower on the left, which, with its
ornamental arcading and delicate ribs of brick and stone, shows an
advance of some centuries on the simplicity of the older one, was built
in 1128 by Archbishop Anselmo for the Canons, to vindicate the ancient
rights of these, the original servants and custodians of the basilica,
against the encroaching monks, who are said to have pulled down the
pre-existing belfry of the secular priests. The struggles between these
two bodies of secular and regular clergy, established side by side and
sharing the privilege of serving the church, were very fierce and
continuous through the Middle Ages. The monks are long gone now, and the
Canons remain in peaceful possession of the altars and of the quiet
courts and shrunken cloisters of the old place. Both towers have been
restored in recent times. The atrium and façade have also been restored,
but show more vestiges of the original work. In the fantastic sculptured
imagery which ornaments the capitals of the great columns, in the
curling foliage patterns of the friezes on archivolts and architraves,
in the endless knots and intricate web of the ribbed stems upon the
lintels and jambs and columns of the great middle doorway, in the
grotesque beasts and human creatures which course up pillars, or writhe
round capitals, we see the hand of the twelfth century craftsman still
shaping the stone into the forms of religious symbolism, but expressing
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