Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
A chapel on the south side of the church leads to the small sanctuary
which is all that remains of the Basilica Faustæ, or San Vittore in
Cielo d’Oro, afterwards dedicated to S. Satiro, who was buried there in
379 by his brother St. Ambrose. The present chapel, restored in 1859, is
the easternmost bay of the original church, which was probably rebuilt
in the eighth century. The deep cupola is covered with gold mosaic, with
a figure of San Vittore in the centre, whence the name San Vittore in
Cielo d’Oro. The Evangelic Beasts are represented round the cupola, and
on the walls below are stiff figures of bishops and saints of the
Milanese Church. These mosaics are fifth century, but have been
restored.
A chapel lower down on this side of the church is frescoed with the
legend of St. George, by Lanino, a follower of Gaudenzio Ferrari. Near a
side door further down still is a painting, in very bad condition,
attributed to Ferrari—Christ bearing the Cross, with the Three
Maries—and some late and inferior frescoes of the same school. A
coloured stucco image of St. Ambrose, of the eleventh century, done from
a portrait of him taken from life, as the inscription informs us, is to
be seen on the wall nearer the west end. Beneath it is the stone
sarcophagus of Archbishop Ansperto, and the famous epitaph referring to
the building of the atrium. On the north wall, opposite, a relic of the
pagan past is placed over the door leading into the belfry, a bas-relief
of the Vintage, exquisitely decorative and gay. It is supposed to be a
vestige of a Temple of Bacchus, which, according to tradition, stood
upon the site of this church and was swept away by Ambrose. The last
chapel on this side is the baptistery, and here is a fresco by
Borgognone over the altar—the Risen Christ between two Angels. The long,
slender figure of the Christ, graceful but nerveless, the general
expression of pensiveness and sweetness, the colour no longer grey and
pallid, as in his earlier pictures, but rich and harmonious, are very
characteristic of this artist in his late period.
Two columns standing in the nave are surmounted, one by a serpent of
bronze, the other by the cross. The serpent, if we may believe the
eleventh century chronicler Landolfo, is that very one which Moses set
up in the wilderness, and was brought in the writer’s own day from
Constantinople by Archbishop Arnolfo, who had gone thither to seek the
hand of the Emperor’s daughter for Otho III., and to whom the Greeks,
who owned the sacred treasure, had presented it. Women used to bring
their sick children to the column to be healed by the serpent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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