Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
Further on, beside the modern gate, is the old basilica of St.
Eustorgio, once famous as the resting-place of the Three Kings, and
later as the shrine of St. Peter Martyr. Tradition declares that the
basilica was built by the Milanese bishop, St. Eustorgio, in the fourth
century, on the site of an ancient font used by St. Barnabas himself to
baptise his converts. The primitive church, whatever its date, was
replaced later by a Romanesque building, which exists in the main to
this day, though with many alterations and modifications made by
successive generations of devotees. Recent restorations have cleared
away the disfigurements which it suffered in the baroque period.
The exterior gives a striking record of the phases through which the
church has passed. The façade is in the characteristic style of the
thirteenth century, but dates only from 1865. The south flank, which was
restored at the same time, is of the fourteenth century, when the
Visconti, Torriani and other great families, eager to show their
devotion to the church where the recent martyr Peter of Verona was
buried, built a series of sepulchral chapels on this side. With its
slender pointed windows, and _oculi_ deeply set within a rich framework
of multiplied mouldings, its gables and characteristic ornamentation of
interlaced _archetti_ beneath the eaves, it is a very graceful example
of the Gothic brick building of North Italy. A chapel projecting at the
western end belongs to the fifteenth century, and was built by Pietro
Solari. The apse of the church, with its deep-niched arcade, carries us
back again to the Romanesque period. Beside it rises, in accordant
style, the Campanile, which was begun in 1297, and beyond, at the east
end of the church, is a beautiful chapel, built nearly two centuries
later—in 1462—for Pigello Portinari by a Tuscan architect, probably
Michele Michelozzo. The tall brick Campanile, soaring in its direct
simplicity and strength, each storey marked by a line of graceful
_archetti_ and of bricks set pointwise above them, making a sort of
dogtooth ornamentation, and its angles faced with white stone, contrasts
in an interesting manner with the proud little building below. The
Portinari chapel shows the new development of brick architecture in
obedience to the classic ideas of the Renaissance. The rotund cupola
swelling upon the broad square base, the elaborate yet harmonious
combination of curves and rectangles, the restrained decoration of
moulded pilasters and flat-carved capitals, of rich terra-cotta cornices
and deep-moulded _oculi_, the skilful arrangement of colour in the
distribution of stucco and brick, all reveal new thoughts, new ideals,
new knowledge, a sort of human pride undreamed of by the faithful souls
of the earlier generation, who thought only of glorifying God and
lifting their building as near to Heaven as they could.
[Illustration: EXTERIOR OF PORTINARI CHAPEL, ST. EUSTORGIO.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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