Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
By a staircase, which emerges on a terrace, where you find yourself
close to the ancient brick campanile of the convent—a relic, some say,
of the Roman walls, or, according to other authorities, one of the
towers built by Ansperto when he restored the walls in the ninth
century—you are conducted into the upper gallery of the church. Over the
doorways leading through this loggia there are half-length paintings of
women saints by Boltraffio, exceedingly charming where they have not
been spoilt by repainting. They have the familiar contours of that
artist’s Madonnas, but the colour, unlike the hot and opaque tones of
his oil-painting, is very fresh and delicate, and decorative. They are
all there, the Martyrs, Catherine, Agnes, Agatha, and the rest, each
sweet-visaged creature bearing a green branch flowering into red or some
lovely blossom. Here is one of a type especially characteristic of
Boltraffio, with long golden hair curling in rings over her shoulders;
she is dressed in green and purple, and holds a lily. On the wall
dividing the two parts of the church there are some very poor frescoes
by the sons of Luini—the Supper in the House of the Pharisee, the
Adoration of the Magi, and the Baptism of Christ.
The effect of the long gallery and of the richly-decorated church as
seen through its graceful pillared openings is very charming. A fit
temple for Suora Alessandra and her fellows, those vestal virgins of the
Renaissance, cherishing the flame of its many-sided religion in their
art-irradiated cloisters, innocent sacrifices for the sins of the too
vigorous races, Bentivogli, Sforza, and many another almost as wicked,
from which they sprang. Beneath the archways, where their beautiful
martyr sisters of long before look sweetly down upon them, the meek
veiled figures seem to flit silently before us. But they, too, are but
beings of the imagination now. The little door in the wall between
Luini’s saints is never opened now for the passing of the Eucharist to
the cloistered worshippers on the inner side. No sweet voices rise any
more to the accompaniment of that ornate organ; the long row of stalls
has been untenanted this hundred years and more. In this place, where
those virgin princesses and ladies knelt and adored, surrounded by these
exquisite creations of the Renaissance spirit, and by its lovely order
and refinement, the loathsome dust to-day lies thickly everywhere, and
no foot falls but that of a chance visitor. And the vast gardens and
vineyards of the convent, where behind high secluding walls Alessandra
and her companions took the air and played and laughed, let us hope, and
where, doubtless, the stately Ippolita came to visit her daughter,
bringing a breath of the joyous world outside, have given place to
modern streets and houses, and the great Monastero Maggiore has utterly
disappeared, except for this one rich relic, the church.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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