Moscow (Russia) -- Description and travel; Moscow (Russia) -- History
It starts from the Alexander Gardens, the old western bank of the stream
Neglinnaia that once strengthened the defences of the Kremlin; passes
the entrance to the riding school, one of the great things Moscow has
produced since the fire of 1812. The length of this building is 360
feet, breadth 168, and its wooden roof, unsupported by perpendicular
stanchions, was considered a wonder of the world, when Alexander first
manoeuvered 2000 infantry, and 1000 cavalry beneath it. Then come the
Universities, the old and the new, one on each hand; beyond, on the
left, is the Nikitsky Monastery, enclosing four churches, one dating
from the founding of the monastery in 1682, at the end of the "golden
age." On the opposite side is the Academy of Science, on this the
Conservatorium, facing it a quaint old church of primitive architecture
and diminutive size; above its lowly belfry rears the square brick-built
tower of an English Church. The house of a boyard here, of a prince
there, bear names of note in Moscow's history, as Gagarin, Galitzin,
Chernichev, designate the owners of the houses on either side, and of
the side streets to right and left. The further from the Kremlin, the
centre, the more frequent and greater the inducement to turn aside to
inspect more closely the glittering and gaudy domes of churches, old and
new, which are thickly sprinkled over the whole district. Nor can the
stranger easily do amiss whichever way he turns. If towards the left, a
curious lofty belfry of open masonry will repay careful scrutiny, and
reveal close by other domed and pinnacled temples, lost amidst this
multitude of white walls and luxuriant verdure. If to the right, two
churches in close proximity, of unique design and, probably, oppressive
colouring, will encourage to further explorations in the same direction.
The oldest churches in the neighbourhood of the Arbat are, Boris and
Gleb, 1527; Tikhon, the wonder-worker, 1689; but the Church of the
Transfiguration is one of the most beautiful. In the Povarskaya, is that
of St Simon Stylite, 1676, and near, another interesting
church--Rojdestvenka.
Probably Moscow does not charm so strongly by reason of any particular
building or style as by the great diversity of its houses and churches,
both in design and colouring. More especially in those quarters where
the wooden log-houses still linger in their gardens, and where the
frame-houses are all made gay with white, cream, blue-gray, yellow and
pink body colour, and the roofs of dark green or still darker crimson;
there Moscow seems to belong to another world. It is, alas, disappearing
fast, and the spacious courtyards, with their trees and the gardens gay
with giant lilacs and golden-chain, are being built on, and houses that
stand shoulder to shoulder in plain and hideous uniformity level up the
largest village to the standard of a modern town made in Germany.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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