Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History
Entering the Cour du Mai by the great iron grille which has replaced
the old stone portal, flanked by two towers, a passage on the left
leads us to the Cour de la Ste. Chapelle (p. 86). We enter by the west
porch of the lower chapel. On the central pier is a restored figure of
the Virgin whose original is said to have bowed her head to the famous
Scotch theologian Duns Scotus, in recognition of his championship of
the dogma of the Immaculate Conception, in 1304: in the decoration of
the base of the column and of the embrasures of the door, the
Fleur-de-Lys of St. Louis is seen alternating with the Castilian Tower
of his mother, Blanche of Castile, a decorative motive repeated in the
painting of the chapel.
Beautiful as are the vaultings and proportions of the lower chapel,
and the decoration, copied, as in the upper chapel, from traces of the
original colouring found under the whitewash, the visitor will
doubtless prefer to ascend, after a cursory inspection, the narrow,
winding stairway to the resplendent upper sanctuary, whose dazzling
brilliancy moved an ancient writer to declare that "in the contest
between light and darkness in architecture, the creator of the Ste.
Chapelle in the pride of his victory built with light itself." In the
apse, flooded by streams of colour falling from the windows, is the
platform or tribune where, in a rich reliquary of gold, glittering
with precious stones, and under a baldachin, the holy relics from
Constantinople were exposed in days of old. Part of the tribune is
preserved and one of the staircases by which it is ascended, that to
the N., is said to date from the founder's time, and may often have
been trodden by the very feet of St. Louis himself. Little else of the
interior furniture has escaped destruction. The beautiful high altar,
the rood loft, the choir stalls, have long disappeared. Four only of
the statues of the apostles bearing the crosses of consecration are
said to be originals--the fourth and fifth on each side of the nave
counting from the west door; the relics, or all that escaped the
political storms of the _annee terrible_, are now at Notre Dame, and
the reliquary that contained them went to feed the hungry war-chest of
the revolutionary armies. But the thirteenth-century jewelled windows,
as left to us by the admirable restorers of 1855, are of paramount
interest. The wealth of design and amplitude of the series are truly
amazing. The panels, numbering about eleven hundred, are a compendium
of sacred history and a revelation of the world to come: the whole
scene from the Creation to the Apocalypse is unrolled before our eyes,
pictured in a transparent symphony of colour. Seven windows of the
nave and four of the apse deal with Old Testament history: three at
the end of the apse with the New. The eighth window of the nave (the
first to the R. of entrance), dealing with the story of the
Translation of the relics from Constantinople, although the most
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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