Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History
Nos. 14 and 16, corner of the Rue de Sevigne, is the Hotel de
Carnavalet, a magnificent renaissance mansion, in raising which no
less than four famous architects had part--Lescot, Bullant, Du Cerceau
and the elder Mansard. For twenty years (1677-1697) it was the home of
Madame Sevigne, queen of letter-writers. Her _Carnavalette_, as she
delighted to call it, is now the civic museum of Paris. The beautiful
reliefs over the entrance, including the two superb lions against a
background of trophies, are by Goujon, as are also the satyrs' heads
on the keystones of the arcades of the courtyard. The Four Seasons and
some of the lateral figures that decorate the courtyard were designed
by him. In the centre stands a bronze statue of Louis XIV as a Roman
conqueror, by Coysevox, which once stood on the Place de Greve before
the old Hotel de Ville. The museum, which contains a collection,[233]
historic and prehistoric, relating to the city of Paris, is especially
rich in objects, all carefully labelled, illustrating the great
Revolution, and is of profound interest to students of that period:
the second floor is devoted to the last siege of Paris. From the
museum we fare yet further E. along the Rue des Francs Bourgeois to
the Place Royale (now des Vosges), the site of the Palace of the
Tournelles, once a favourite pleasure-house with a fair garden, of the
kings of France, and where the Duke of Bedford lived during the
English occupation, projecting to transform it into an English park
for his exclusive use. There the ill-fated Henry II. lay eleven days
in excruciating agony (p. 172), calling for his _seule princesse_, the
beloved Diana, while Catherine, like a she-dragon, watched lest her
rival entered. After his death the palace becoming hateful to
Catherine, she had it demolished. It was subsequently used as a
horse-market, and there the three minions of Henry III. began their
bloody duel with the three bullies of the Duke of Guise at five in
the morning of 27th April 1578, and fought on until every one was
either slain or severely wounded.
[Footnote 233: Recently augmented.]
How different is the present aspect of this once courtly square! Here
noble gentlemen in dazzling armour jousted, while from the windows of
each of the thirty-five pavilions, gentle dames and demoiselles smiled
gracious guerdon to their cavaliers. Around the bronze statue of Louis
XIII., proudly erect on the noble horse cast by Daniello da Volterra,
in the midst of the gardens, fine ladies were carried in their
sedan-chairs and angry gallants fought out their quarrels. And now on
this royal Place, the Perle du Marais, the scene of these brilliant
revels, peaceful inhabitants of the east of Paris sun themselves and
children play. Bronze horse and royal rider went to the melting pot of
the Revolution to be forged into cannon that defeated and humbled the
allied kings of Europe, and a feeble marble equestrian statue, erected
under the Restoration, occupies its place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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