Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History
In the earlier days of the Revolution when its leaders looked for
sympathy to England, "a brave and generous nation, whose name alone
like that of Rome evokes ideas of Liberty," the people during an
exhibition of anti-monarchical feeling went about destroying the
insignia of royalty. On coming in the Palais Royal to the sign of the
English king's head over a restaurant, an orator mounted a chair in
the gardens, and informed them that it was the head of a good king,
ruling over a free nation: it was spared, amid shouts of "_Vive la
Liberte_." Later, at the Cafe des Milles Colonnes, the handsome Madame
Romain, _La Belle Limonadiere_, sat majestically on a real throne used
by a king whom Napoleon had overthrown.
We leave the gardens by the issue in the middle of the N. colonnade,
mount the steps and at the corner of the Rue Vivienne and the Rue des
Petits Champs opposite, come upon the Palais Mazarin (p. 222), now the
Bibliotheque Nationale, with a fine facade on each street. In the Rue
Vivienne stood also the princely Hotel Colbert, of which only the name
remains--the Passage Colbert. We turn W. along the Rue des Petits
Champs and skirt the W. walls of the modernised palace northwards
along the Rue de Richelieu to the main Cour d'Honneur, opposite the
Square Louvois. Hence we may enter some rooms, which contain a
magnificent and matchless collection of printed books, bindings and
illuminated MSS. The second of the two halls where these treasures are
exposed, the Galerie Mazarin, is a part of the old palace and retains
its fine frescoed ceiling. As we retrace our steps down the Rue
Richelieu we may enter, on our L. the equally rich and sumptuous
museum of coins, medals, antiques, intaglios, gems, etc. Having
regained the Rue des Petits Champs, we resume our westward way, noting
at No. 45, corner of the Rue St. Anne, the fine double facade of the
Hotel erected by Lulli and bearing the great musician's coat-of-arms,
a design of trumpets, lyres and cymbals, and soon cross the Avenue de
l'Opera to the Rue St. Roch on our L. This we descend to the church of
the same name, with old houses still nestling against it, famous for
Bonaparte's whiffs of grape-shot that scattered the Royalist
insurrectionary forces stationed there on 5th October 1795. We descend
to the Rue de Rivoli. To our L., at the Place des Pyramids, a statue
of Joan of Arc recalls her ill-advised attack on Paris, and to our R.,
on the railings of the Tuileries Garden opposite No. 230, Rue de
Rivoli, is the inscription marking the site of the Salle du Manege (p.
271). Northward hence extend Napoleon's Rues de Castiglione and de la
Paix, the Regent Street of Paris, divided by the Place Vendome, which
was intended by its creator, Louvois, to be the most spacious in the
city. A monumental parallelogram of public offices was designed to
enclose the Place, but Versailles engulfed the king's resources and
the ambitious scheme was whittled down, the area much reduced, and the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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