The gigantic church of S. Domenico towers above the street to the left.
It is one of those desolate unfinished Gothic buildings which one finds
so often in Italian cities--a great idea dwarfed, not by want of
inspiration, but by the need of money to complete it. The church as we
now see it is merely a patchwork of the first architect's original
conception. It was begun early in the fourteenth century from designs
by Giovanni Pisano, but it was not finished till 1459. The building owed
much of its splendour to a young man of Perugia, Cristiano Armanni, who,
whilst studying at Bologna, had been converted to the faith by the
preaching of S. Domenico. Cristiano returned from the university in the
society of a certain S. Niccolò of Calabria, and induced his parents and
his friends to give him money for the new church which was about to be
built to honour S. Domenico. The magistrates of Perugia contributed a
banner to the cause, and they decided that wherever S. Niccolò might
place this banner, there the new church should be built. He planted it
near the church of S. Stefano, and on that site the present church of S.
Domenico now stands. Through the fault of inferior masons, part of the
choir and the middle nave fell through in 1614, but Bishop Comitoli
determined to rebuild it on the original design. He spent more than 4000
_scudi_ on this generous act and was as ill-rewarded as the most patient
builder of card-castles ever was, for the whole of his work collapsed
for the second time. It was finally rebuilt on the designs of Carlo
Maderno, in 1632. But all this tinkering has left very sorry scars, and
even the tower outside has not been spared. It was begun later than the
rest of the church and was not finished till about the end of the
fourteenth century, when Paul III. at once had the top of it knocked off
because he declared that the monks of S. Domenico could, from their
campanile, look down and spy upon the building of his fortress!
One or two relics alone remain of the many beautiful bits of art with
which the church was rich in early days. Of these the tomb of Pope
Benedict XI. is the most fascinating.
Of the life of Benedict there is not much to say; his reign covered a
period of only eight months, and perhaps his greatest glory is in his
tomb. He was a native of Treviso and belonged to the Dominican order. In
1304 he, like other popes and tired people, came to Perugia in search of
the peace he could not find in Rome, and there, in that same year, he
died. When in Perugia his mother came to see him--a thing which had only
once happened to a pope before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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