Some say that Benedict was poisoned because of the ill-feeling of the
Florentines towards him, and others that he died by the jealous hand of
Philippe le Bel of France. The historians of the present day deny the
fact of poison at all. Be these matters as they may, the fact of the
dead pope's tomb remains--an entrancing bit of human workmanship. It was
made by Giovanni Pisano, son of the great Niccola, "who first breathed
life, with the breath of genius, into the dead forms of plastic art."
Pope Benedict lies asleep; stretched out quite flat and thin in his
exquisitely folded robes; there is a canopy over him with curtains
strung across it and two angels have drawn the curtain back to gaze at
the figure of the dead man. The columns of the tomb were filled up once
with precious mosaics, but during Napoleon's occupation of Perugia, a
regiment of men and horse were quartered in the church of S. Domenico,
and the French soldiers are said to have employed their leisure hours in
picking out these treasures with their pen-knives. Perhaps it was these
same thoughtless beings who wilfully mutilated the exquisite figures of
children, fragments of which are still left clinging to the spiral
curves.
The terra-cotta decorations in the chapel of the Rosario are the work of
Agostino Ducci--the Florentine sculptor who made the lovely front of S.
Bernardino, (see chapter viii.), and they would be interesting if only
for that reason. Though mutilated in parts, and spoilt by careless
white-wash, much of the detail is still charming; notably the three
little angels over the central arch. As for the rest of the church it
has but little interest now-a-days. The immense Gothic window of the
choir is said to be the largest in Italy, but the original glass is
entirely gone from its frame. The whole has been carefully restored by
Signor Moretti of Perugia. The stalls are covered with good intarsia
work, but they have been greatly spoiled by careless restoration, and
have a naked and forsaken look about them. S. Domenico is one of those
pathetic buildings which leave upon one's mind the feeling of arrested
decay, and one hurries gladly from it and out into the sunlight of the
street.
S. PIETRO.
Very different in every way is the church of S. Pietro, which one
reaches after passing through the gate of Porta Romana. "The Basilica of
S. Pietro is so adorned with beauties," says its faithful, but perhaps
too fond, biographer, "that it would suffer and be overburdened were
others added to it." The praise is certainly high, but it has a certain
grain of truth, and the church of S. Pietro, is, amongst the churches of
Perugia, a jewel of inestimable price, for unlike all the others it has
been left with all its treasures and its pictures in it (see note, p.
163).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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