A door festooned with splendid garlands of fruit, carved deep in creamy
marbles, leads from the courtyard into the church. The interior is
heavily decorated, but though some of the pictures are far from good,
the impression given by the whole is beautiful and pleasing; and the
choir, which was added in 1400, is one of the loveliest things of its
kind in Italy. The columns of the nave are some of the remains of the
only pagan temple which was left in Perugia after the siege of Augustus
(see S. Angelo, chapter vii.). With the exception of Perugino's great
altar-piece, S. Pietro has preserved nearly all the pictures which were
painted for it. Amongst these is a good _Pietà_ by Perugino (perhaps one
of the panels out of the big picture at S. Agostino). There are three
large canvases by Vasari in the chapel of the Holy Sacrament, a painting
by Eusebio di S. Giorgio of the Adoration of the Magi on the wall
outside and a picture by Guido Reni in the chapel of the
Annunciation.[68] At the end of the left transept is a _Pietà_ by
Bonfigli. "Cette Piété incorrecte et pieuse," as M. Broussole describes
it. The picture hangs in a bad light between the Vibi chapel and the
door, and at first only the white naked figure of Christ shines out on
the dark blue gown of the virgin; but looking a little longer we find
ourselves in the study of S. Jerome: one of those enchanting rooms which
this particular saint inevitably inhabits, neat and exquisite in the
arrangement of its benches and its lectern. Our Lady of Pity is sitting
there, holding the dead figure of her son and kissing his head upon her
shoulder. To her right is a figure of S. Leonard, to the left, and
wholly unconscious of the tragedy, S. Jerome sits, smiling a little
slyly. There is beautiful intarsia work (older than that in the choir)
on the walls of the sacristy, and some fine illuminated books; lower
down the church in the right transept, a beautiful bit of work by
Salimbene of Siena, and on the last wall a fine picture of the school of
Perugino, very rich and bright in colour. The two Alfanis have left
ample specimens of their art in S. Pietro, and there are several of
Sassoferrato's copies of great masterpieces. But the greatest treasure
of the church, like those of S. Lorenzo and S. Agostino, did not escape
the terrible eye of Napoleon Bonaparte. Perugino's great Assumption,
which formed the glory of the high altar, is gone to France. Only six of
the saints, battered and cut from their frames, linger like unhappy
ghosts on the walls of the sacristy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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