The temple stands on a quiet plot of ground within the city walls,
which, a little to the left of it, end in a great mediæval tower or
portcullis put up in time of war by a _condottiere_! It needed the
Umbrian sky, it required the Umbrian landscape to make of such strange
contrasts an harmonious whole. Yet S. Angelo is one of those things
which at once possesses men's fancy, and we read that even in the middle
ages fantastic legends centred round it, and that the early writers
believed it to be the "pavilion of Orlando."
* * * * *
Having, in this chapter, run through some few historical facts relating
to a Pope, an Abbot, two Umbrian painters and a pagan temple, we may as
well complete the medley with one or two calm records of the Umbrian
saints. Leaving the church of S. Angelo one passes back to the street
and out through the Porta S. Angelo into the open country. The gate is
half a castle, and was built by Fortebraccio when he was strengthening
the city with new walls. There is a charming detail in the life of S.
Francis connected with it. We hear that when Pope Honorius III. was
staying at Perugia, the enthusiasm for saint Francis of Assisi was at
its height, and the Pope with all his court went down across the plain
to visit the quiet dwelling-place of the gentle Christ-like teacher:
"And the friars of S. Francis," says Mariotti, "beheld many counts and
cavaliers and other noble gentlemen, and a great number of Cardinals,
Bishops, Abbots and different clergy, who all came down to see the large
but humble congregation of S. Francis." And then the Saint returned the
visit, and coming in person to call upon the Pope in order to obtain
indulgences for his new church of the Angeli, it happened that as he
passed through the Porta S. Angelo he met with S. Domenico who himself
was hurrying in the same direction. They met each other in the
archway--these two founders of great religious orders--"and with their
usual charity they embraced each other." The picture is beautiful and
striking indeed: maybe a hot May morning, and the two men, who more than
most on earth had overcome themselves and elevated the souls of other
men, staying to embrace in a quiet, homely fashion before passing
further on into the presence of the acknowledged Pontiff of the Church.
S. FRANCESCO AL MONTE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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