Signorelli painted a picture of the Inferno for Orvieto, Sangallo built
for it an Inferno in bricks! Feathery mosses, sombre ferns have grown
across the inside walls of the great _pozzo_ (which was built on a scale
to suit a train of ascending and descending elephants); they seemed to
seethe like sulphurous smoke in the dark and fetid air and we hurried
from it gladly into the rain of the street....
CHIUSI.
From Orvieto we went to Chiusi. The rain went with us too, and of the
town itself we saw but little, only all around us in the dense woods, in
the silent soaking air of night, the nightingales were singing their
piercing penetrating songs of love and May. The air was full of the
strong sweet voices and of the scent of growing leaves, of privet, and
wet earth. Chiusi is a centre of interest to students of Etruscan
history, and although the little town exports its treasures to every
museum in Europe its own is full of beauties still. We lingered long
among them, fascinated by the goblin birds which are perched upon the
vases and the pent roof of the tombs, fascinated by the excellence and
the variety of the greater part of all the objects in the cases. The
rain poured pitilessly upon the streets of Chiusi; it swept in sheets
across the lake and over the towers of Montepulciano, and we abandoned
all hopes of going to the tombs themselves and drove away across the
marshes and up the wooded hills to Città della Pieve.[128]
CITTÀ DELLA PIEVE.
... "j'étais tout de même persuadé que Città della Pieve reste la ville
la plus merveilleuse de l'Ombrie," says M. Broussole; and we ourselves
in many ways agreed with him. The charm of the town consists firstly, in
its situation, and secondly, in its association. It commands wide views
northwards over the lakes of Chiusi and of Trasimene, and southwards
towards Rome. The hill on which it stands is densely wooded, there is
perpetual peace in its streets, it is the birth-place of Pietro
Perugino and contains some faint fair bits of the master's later work.
All day we wandered through the town, and when the evening came we found
ourselves at service in the church of Santa Maria dei Servi.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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