[45] Bonazzi says that the present Via Vecchia was one of the very
earliest of the streets, and that people have tramped up and down it
for at least twenty-five hundred years.
[46] One historian says that there were as many as a hundred towers,
but the more prudent Mariotti will only allow of forty-two. Only
one or two remain, yet in old days they, like the city walls, were
most carefully preserved, and it appears that Sextus IV. "fulminated
excommunications and fined by a fine of fifty ducats any person who
dared to pull down a tower." Of those which remain the Torre degli
Scirri at Porta Susanna is the most conspicuous. The bell tower of the
Palazzo Pubblico is another; and in many of the streets one can trace
their mutilated trunks between the house walls.
[47] These graceful arches have been almost everywhere bricked up and
replaced by square window posts, perhaps because it was easier to
fit glass into a square than into an arch. In Gubbio and some of the
smaller Umbrian towns the arched window has in many houses been left
untouched.
[48] In old days the Perugians actually kept a caged lion in their
public palace, so Ciatti was probably quite correct as far as this
first statement is concerned.
[49] Ciatti was neither fair nor true to the women of the town.
The Madonnas of Bonfigli and Perugino disprove his testimony in
the sixteenth century even as our own eyes contradict it in the
nineteenth. We have only to go to mass in S. Lorenzo to realise the
simple grace of the young Umbrian peasant girls, and in some of her
palaces we may have the happiness of seeing some of the fairest women,
and certainly the most elegant, of modern Italy.
[50] This square is one of the most charming points in the city. In
old days it was a very disreputable and untidy suburban square or
thoroughfare. The last witch burned in Perugia was burned in this
place. All the refuse of the city was cast out upon it. In this way,
and upheld by the first Etruscan wall, an artificial space of flat
land was procured which the houses to the east of the piazza now
occupy, but these were always threatened by destruction as the soil
below them was constantly giving way, and one of Fortebraccio's great
works was the bolstering up of these houses with strong arches and
walls from below. The reason of the name of the square is that its
pavement actually covers the Etruscan wall. It is a beautiful and
picturesque place, full of fine detail. The buildings of the old
University (1483) have almost an echo of Oxford in their square window
frames; the palace of the _Capitano del Popolo_ has a grand door in
pietra serena with the figure of Justice carved above it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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