There is a big altar-piece by Signorelli in the chapel of S. Onofrio,
which is interesting as being the only comparatively good piece of the
master's work in the whole of Perugia. The picture has suffered much
from restoration, but the restorer contented himself with mauling the
principal points; he neglected the detail, which is admirable
throughout. The garlands of pink and white convolvulus behind the chair
of our Lady are true to life; the Infant Christ carries a stem of lilies
in his baby hand, and beside the long limbed angel who plays his lute at
the Virgin's feet stands a tumbler full of the freshest jasmine, whilst
below him on the steps another glass is filled with fading violets. One
marvels that a man who could so superbly draw every line and muscle of
the human body, should care to linger over these frail details of the
flowers.
In the left transept of the cathedral three of the popes are buried, and
to anyone who has studied the history of the town and realised its
connection with the power of Rome this otherwise rather dreary and
uninteresting corner of the church will conjure up a host of half
fantastic visions.[61]
The little porphyry urn on the right wall of the transept holds all the
earthly remains of the three popes, Innocent III., Urban IV., and Martin
IV., who all died at Perugia. A delightful legend is told concerning the
death of Innocent. With his usual surprising seriousness the ingenuous
Ciatti tells us that the following remarkable vision occurred to a
certain Abbot of the Cistercian order who was living in the
neighbourhood at the time of Innocent's death:
"Now one hot summer day, overcome by heavy sleep, the Abbot
withdrew himself under the shade of certain plants and there lay
down to rest upon the soft green grass. No sooner had he closed his
eyes in sleep than the eyes of his mind were opened and he saw
Christ appearing in the east accompanied by His angelic court and
seated on a throne. Looking to the west the Abbot then perceived a
naked man, hurrying all out of breath towards the throne, and not
even the weight of his pontifical mitre impeded him in this most
rapid progress, for a fierce and terrifying dragon followed close
behind him, and he was frightened and cried out: 'Have mercy on me,
oh thou most merciful God.' Wherefore the dragon too lifted up his
voice and cried: 'Judge with justice, most high judge.' Then the
good Abbot awoke trembling with fear and much mystified by all that
he had seen, and arriving at the gates of Perugia, he heard the
heavy tolling of the bells and was met by the citizens who all were
wailing with loud voices, crying out: Pope Innocent, Pope Innocent
is dead.' Then the worthy Abbot understood that it was Pope
Innocent III. that he had seen, and he marvelled at the mercy of
Almighty God who treats the humble and the powerful with equal law
and mercy."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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