From the Belvedere we descend the Hradcany Hill, and passing through the
Chotek Park reach the Bruska Street and the suspension bridge. Crossing
this bridge, we reach the old town and the Rudolphinum, and soon find
our way back to the powder tower.
CHAPTER VIII
_Walks and Excursions near Prague_
To those visitors to Prague who have acquired some interest in the
history of the country no excursion will appeal more than that to the
White Mountain, 'the Chacronaea of Bohemia,' as it has been aptly
called. Leaving the Malá Strana by the now-demolished Strahov gate (near
the monastery of that name), we soon reach the White Mountain. Factories
built in modern times have considerably altered the aspect of the
ground. The plateau, which the Bohemian army occupied on the evening of
November 7, 1620, and where earthworks were hastily thrown up, and the
battle-field of the following day can, however, still be clearly
distinguished. The Bohemian lines extended from the village of Repy to
the 'Star' Park and the village of Liboc. The last and fiercest lighting
took place immediately outside the park. Dr. Krebs[54] writes: 'The
south-eastern angle of the "Star" Park became the grave of the national
independence of Bohemia. Every Bohemian who passes this spot should
remember, "It is holy ground on which I tread."' The Star Park is now a
favourite summer resort of the citizens of Prague, who, perhaps wisely,
appear to be intent rather on present pleasure than on gloomy memories
of the past.
'Little they think of those stout limbs
That moulder deep below.'
After the battle the Bohemian troops that still occupied the Royal
hunting lodge at the 'Star' capitulated, and the victorious Duke of
Bavaria spent there the night that followed the battle. Somewhat to the
south of the 'Star' is the Church of St. Mary, built in 1706 in
commemoration of the great defeat of the Bohemians. It is said that when
the Emperor Joseph II. visited this church he expressed his displeasure,
and he is said to have characteristically remarked 'that he wished to
reign over men, not over brutes,[55] who celebrated their own defeat.'
It must be added that the pilgrimages to this church on November 8 have
now entirely ceased.
From the village of Liboc the traveller can by rail reach in half an
hour the romantic valley of the Sarka.
Of the many walks in the immediate neighbourhood of Prague we may
mention that to the Petrin Hill, which has already been referred to. An
outlook tower has recently been built here. Favourite summer resorts of
the citizens of Prague are the Crown Prince Rudolph Park and the
adjoining Belvedere Gardens, and the Stromovka or Baumgarten.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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