Turning to the right we reach the Joseph Street, which marks the
boundary of the Jewish town, now called Joseph's town, the ancient
ghetto of Prague, that still preserves its mediæval character. Entering
the Rabbi Street, we see at our left the Jewish town hall, perhaps one
of the most picturesque buildings in Prague. Immediately opposite is the
far-famed old synagogue, built in the early Gothic style about the
beginning of the thirteenth century. Over the vaulting is a large flag
given to the Jews by the Emperor Ferdinand III. for their bravery during
the siege of 1648. It was 'the highest honour that could then be
conferred on a Jew,' as the guide rather pathetically states. Adjoining
the synagogue is the Jewish cemetery, one of the best-known spots in
Prague. It is very extensive, and contains countless monuments, on many
of which we see the emblems of the tribes of Israel, and the quaint
devices--such as a hare, stag or fish--which with the Jews did duty as
_armes parlantes_. The somewhat gloomy outlook is enlivened in spring by
the gleam of the numerous elder trees that have been planted here.
Immediately outside the precincts of the Jewish town, on the banks of
the Vltava, stands the Rudolphinum, a modern institution named after the
late Crown Prince. It contains a concert room and a small picture
gallery, which is worthy of notice as containing paintings by
little-known Bohemian artists. Perhaps one of the most interesting
pictures is a holy family by Master Detrich of Prague, a votive offering
of Archbishop Ocko of Vlasim, who is represented as kneeling before his
patron saint. In one of the rooms is an interesting collection of
engravings by Wenceslas Hollar, a native of Prague, who principally
worked in England. Turning to the left, and following the course of the
Vltava, we reach the famed Charles Bridge (Karluv Most). At the eastern
end is the monument of King Charles, erected in 1848 in commemoration of
the 500th anniversary of the foundation of the University by that
Sovereign. Quite close to the bridge--which I shall mention later--is
the vast agglomeration of buildings known as the Clementinum, a Jesuit
college founded in 1556 by Ferdinand I. The building was constantly
enlarged up to 1715, and became one of the most important centres of the
Jesuit order. The former Utraquist University of the Carolinum was in
1654 joined to the Jesuit college. The building is still used for the
lectures of the philosophic faculty of the University, the valuable
library of which is also housed here. It contains over 170,000 printed
works, and many interesting MSS. of the period of the Hussite War. Of
special interest is the 'Malostransky Kancional' (liturgy), dating from
1572. It contains on the page dealing with the martyrdom of Hus (July 6)
three miniatures, in which we see superposed Wycliffe striking the fire,
Hus lighting the coals, and Luther holding the already flaming torch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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