Rouen (France) -- Description and travel; Rouen (France) -- History
Before he left the city, he could have seen the exquisite little
shrine of St. Maclou in all the fresh untainted delicacy of its first
achievement. "The eldest daughter of the Archbishop of Rouen," this
marvellous church was the result of one perfect and harmonious plan,
and inasmuch as the design of its originator has been faithfully
completed, it is far more of an architectural unity than its larger
rivals, the Cathedral or St. Ouen. Of these three either one would
make the reputation of an English town alone, and the jewelled
chiselling and admirable proportions of the smallest of them make a
fitting complement to the heavy splendour of the Cathedral on the one
hand, and to the dizzy altitudes of the Abbey on the other.
The first Maclou, as may be imagined, was a Scotchman. He fled to
Brittany, became Bishop of Aleth, and died in the Saintonge in 561.
Ever since the tenth century a shrine had been erected to his memory
outside the earliest walls of Rouen, in that morass which gives its
name to the Rue Malpalu in front of the present church. Twice burnt
and twice rebuilt, it became a parish church within the walls by 1250.
A larger building was soon necessary; even during the miseries of the
English Occupation it was determined to make the new church worthy of
the town that already held the Cathedral and part of St. Ouen; and
before 1500 indulgences had been granted by Hugues, the Archbishop, by
Cardinal d'Estouteville, and by twenty Cardinals of Rome, to raise
sufficient sums of money. In 1437 Pierre Robin, one of the royal
architects from Paris, was paid 43 livres 10 sols for a plan and work
that must have been begun some eighteen months previously with stone
quarried in Val des Leux and Vernon. In 1470 Ambroise Harel was
"Maitre de l'oeuvre," and in 1480 the same Jacques le Roux finished
it who worked in the Cathedral. Of individual bequests that of Jean de
Grenouville, who was buried in the Chapelle de la St. Vierge in 1466,
gave most help. From 1432, when the irreparable ruin of the old church
was first recognised, until 1514, the accounts for only seven years
have been preserved. In 1520 the spire of wood and lead above
Gringoire's lantern was placed on Martin Duperrois' platform, to which
a man might ascend without the help of any ladder. In 1735 this was
removed, and in 1795 the lead was melted into bullets, and the six
bells of 1529 were recast into cannon. In 1868 M. Barthelemy erected
the stone Pyramid 83 metres high to hold the fine new bells.[58]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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