Rouen (France) -- Description and travel; Rouen (France) -- History
Close to these eloquent ruins is a church that has had a somewhat
better fate, for if St. Godard has been rather roughly treated, the
beauty of its stained-glass windows has saved it from absolute
destruction. In the chapel of St. Peter, due east at the end of the
north aisle, is the great window that was made in 1555 to represent
St. Romain, who is shown at the top, on the left hand, dragging the
Gargouille of Rouen to destruction with his sacred stole (see p. 39).
Lower down, on the right, you must look at the King seated in his
royal chair, and the hounds at play before him on the carpet. In the
south aisle the corresponding window to the east has a tree of Jesse
in its upper part, and beneath is one of the finest examples of
sixteenth century painting in Rouen, work that reminds you of the work
of Rembrandt. Of these five figures of old men, the last two on the
right are especially worthy of attentive study. They were done in
1535. To the right of this window in the same chapel, looking
southwards, is another fine window of about the same date, said to be
copied from a design by Raphael and his school, of the life and
genealogy of the Blessed Virgin; but it is not so strong or original
in treatment as the last. Beneath it are two kneeling figures carved
upon the tomb of the family of Bec de Lievre.
[Illustration: EGLISE ST. LAURENT]
In the Rue Jeanne d'Arc is another church, St. Vincent, that must be
visited. I have spoken already of the little labourer in tunic and
breeches, with a sack of salt upon his back, who stands upon the
outside of the buttress to the south of the choir, and looks towards
the river. It commemorates the fact that, by letters patent delivered
by Charles VI. in 1409, the church (which was then much nearer to the
river) was allowed to take toll of every cargo of salt which came into
the port, a privilege which was exchanged in 1649 for an annual
payment of 140 livres. Begun in 1511--or, as some say, 1480--after the
plans of Guillaume Touchet, St. Vincent certainly comes after St.
Maclou in order of merit. Its choir alone is a magnificent specimen of
the architectural possibilities of the smaller churches, and must have
been finished before 1530, when Touchet's supervision ended. The
splendid flamboyant western porch is not shown in Lelieur's plan of
1525, and was probably a later addition. The name of Ambroise Harel
has also been connected with the work, but I have been unable to
satisfy myself of the exact portions for which he may have been
responsible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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