Rouen (France) -- Description and travel; Rouen (France) -- History
How well he fulfilled his vow, there are many things in Rouen to this
day to tell, and the blessing that he gave his congregation was not
limited to things spiritual and unseen. His splendid public
benefactions in regulating the water-supply of the town have been
already noticed, and may be better realised in Lelieur's careful
drawings. His Cathedral remembers him by her western facade, by the
rich balustrades around the choir, now vanished, by numerous costly
shrines and jewels in the Tresor, by that Tour de Beurre[59] which
held "Georges d'Amboise" the greatest bell outside of Russia, that
every outlying parish could hear, by the magnificent building which
future archbishops justly called their palace. And the Province of
which he became governor when Louis d'Orleans rose to be Louis XII.,
"avec le titre effrayant de reformateur-general," owed him the
blessings of peace from brigandage and prosperity in commerce; owed
him, better than all, the firm and permanent establishment of the
Courts of Justice. By all these, and more, he worthily has won the
right to be considered by far the strongest and ablest Archbishop
Rouen ever had. After his election, his nephew, the second Georges
d'Amboise, was the only other primate the Chapterhouse was ever
permitted to elect. The tomb of both is in the Chapelle de la Vierge
of the Cathedral.
[Footnote 59: The name is said to have arisen from the fact that it
was chiefly built by the fines paid by those of the faithful who ate
butter during Lent.]
I have but too short space or time wherein to tell you more of the
interior of that great edifice, whose building I described when Philip
Augustus made Normandy a part of France. But out of the multitude of
interests that will stay your every step beneath its arches, there are
a few things I must point out now, and leave the most famous of its
tombs till later.
[Illustration: WESTERN PORCH OF ST. VINCENT]
As you enter by the western door, turn southwards into the Chapelle
St. Etienne beneath the Tour de Beurre. The second monumental stone
on the right is in memory of Nicole Gibouin, and it is one of the most
exquisitely drawn faces that you will see in all Rouen. This face and
both hands are incised in white marble, the rest of the body and dress
is indicated by red lines cut lightly in the stone. At his feet lies a
dog holding a bone. After this, there is scarcely a monument worth
looking at that can elude your notice; but as my business is to omit
the obvious and point out the beauties which might escape unwarned
attention, I shall direct you straightway to the choir, and more
particularly to the carved oak stalls. The seats, as is usually the
case, turn up to form an additional rest for priests who had to stand
through long and numerous services, and upon these under surfaces
(called misericordes) is an extraordinary series of carvings which you
must look at, every one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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