Rouen (France) -- Description and travel; Rouen (France) -- History
It was no doubt at the time when St. Romain himself finally destroyed
the Tarasque of idolatry that this first church arose above the ruins
of the pagan shrine. But of Roman or Merovingian structures St. Paul
can show no trace. It has, however, an extremely interesting early
Norman apse, which is different to everything else in Rouen, and older
than any other building, save St. Mellon's crypt at St. Gervais. By
going round the outside you can see three apses, and as you stand
there, the midmost apse is the Norman building, that on your left is
of the ninth century, and that on the right of the fourteenth. This
Norman flat-buttressed and round-arched apse is directed to the east
of summer, while the new church in the same place points to the east
of winter, and is almost at right angles to the older one. The corbels
outside, beneath the roof, are carved with the hairy-bearded faces of
conquered Franks and Saxons, who were thus set up to the perpetual
derision of their clean-shaved Norman victors. The idea is as old as
the Temple of Agrigentum in 600 B.C., where the conquered Africans
hold up the weight of the building, and recalls the barbarity of the
primitive Sagas, which relate how the bleeding heads of enemies
themselves were placed around the temples of the Norsemen.
The nave goes back into some private property beyond the churchyard,
in which a forgotten tomb lies mouldering behind the railings. In the
grass to the right of the old apse you can see a pointed arch
springing from a capital, which shows how the surrounding soil has
risen since the thirteenth century. This old building is all used as
the vestry of the new church, through which you must pass to see the
interior of the ancient buildings. Once within them, you will find
nearest to you the fourteenth-century work of which a fragment showed
outside. Then comes the Norman chapel, that recalls the work in the
abbey of St. George's de Boscherville. Beyond that again is the
ninth-century "Saxon" buildings. The archaic quality of the decoration
is very notable in the capital that represents the adoration of the
Magi, and indicates the relative importance of the personages by the
size in which each is carved, just as is done in the Egyptian
sculptures.
[Illustration: APSE OF THE OLD CHURCH OF ST. PAUL]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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