Rouen (France) -- Description and travel; Rouen (France) -- History
I have been at this length in explaining the building of the
cathedrals, because it would be impossible for you, without some such
suggestion of their origin, to realise the meaning of the carvings
which cover the great north and south porches of the transept at
Rouen. I choose them first out of the mass of detail and construction
in this enormous and heterogeneous building, because they are most
typical of the feeling which gave it birth, and of the craftsmen who
worked upon it. It is well-nigh impossible to attempt any explanation
of the many styles, from the twelfth century to the sixteenth, which
are commingled, superimposed even, without any feeling in the mind of
the architect, for the time being, except that of the imperious need
for self-expression, regardless of the fashions of his predecessor. In
the great western facade this mingling of the styles is most
observable. The angle towers are absolutely unlike, the arches are
broken, the pinnacles are smashed short off, niches are mutilated,
and arabesques are worn away, yet in the healing rays of moonlight,
the whole composes into a mysterious beauty of its own that will not
bear the strict analysis of glaring day.
But the Portail aux Libraires which Jean Davi, the architect of the
Chapelle de la Vierge, built for Archbishop Guillaume de Flavacourt in
1278, will bear microscopic examination in every part, and the
reverently careful restorations carried out some time ago by MM.
Desmarest and Barthelemy have only brought to light the exquisite
perfection of the original work. This gate to the northern transept
got its name from the special trade which gradually was connected with
that portion of the Cathedral bounds. I have already noticed how the
Parvis was filled with various shops and booths, and this space before
the northern gate was similarly appropriated by booksellers until at
least some time after the sixteenth century was over. What I have to
say now is connected with the actual portal itself. The forecourt once
filled with bookstalls, that leads up to it, was only decorated in
1480 by Guillaume Pontifz, who also erected the fine screen that opens
into it from the Rue St. Romain. On the east side of this court you
may see St. Genevieve standing with a Bible in her left hand, and a
candle in her right. Upon one shoulder a tiny angel tries to kindle
the light, while on the other a wicked little devil with a pair of
bellows is perched ready to blow it out again. The panel decoration
upon the buttresses of this north door has been selected by Mr Ruskin
as the high-water mark of Gothic tracery before its decline began. It
takes the form of blind windows carved upon the solid stone, and is
certainly an exquisite example of varied, yet severe proportion and
arrangement. Its plan expresses the true qualities of the material
with a right regard for mass in decoration, rather than for line, the
fatal change which wrought so much damage after the earlier ruling
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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