The Story of SevilleGallichan, Walter M. (Walter Matthew)
History
The Story of Seville
Gallichan, Walter M. (Walter Matthew)
Seville (Spain)
The custom of going about armed is just one of those mediæval usages
that still prevail in spite of the suppression of brigandage and the
protection of the railway trains and stations by the vigilant,
well-trained and courteous Civil Guards. Spaniards are conservative;
they cling to practices that are no longer necessary, and the carrying
of knives and pistols is one of those quixotic characteristics of the
race, which will probably survive for several generations. As a matter
of fact, the stranger in Seville is as safe, to say the least, as he is
in London. The species Hooligan is unknown in Spain, though, of course,
there are thieves in the country as in every other quarter of
Christendom throughout the globe. The _navaja_ is never worn and used
ostentatiously. It is the weapon of the criminal population and the
disreputable, and it is too often drawn in street broils and for
vendetta purposes.
It is not necessary that I should caution the visitor against wandering
alone, after dark, in the low streets of the city, nor warn him that it
is risky to engage professional guides, who are not well known for
honesty, and recommended by one of the proprietors of the better-class
hotels. I do not wish to alarm the timid traveller. One should point
out, however, that highway robberies do occasionally occur in the
country districts.
Two years ago, in the neighbourhood of Granada, a party of travellers
found themselves and the guides surrounded by ruffians on a
mountain-side, and were submitted to a complete rifling of their pockets
before they were allowed to proceed on their way. A friend of mine, an
English artist, was one of the party. You are frequently told in Spain
that brigandage has been entirely suppressed. It is quite true that the
Civil Guards have almost exterminated the organised bands of brigands
that used to infest the lonelier roads of the country. But, here and
there, as in Galicia, robbers sometimes work in small parties on the
high roads, after dark. In Seville, however, one may feel as secure as
in any other continental city. The average Andalusian is honest. Railway
porters, cabmen, and hotel servants expect a _propina_ or 'tip'; but
they are seldom exacting, and rarely addicted to pilfering. The
_propina_ is a national institution; but a small gratuity is, as a rule,
gratefully received, and I have met porters and others who have refused
a fee for their assistance. Railway servants and hotel waiters are so
poorly paid in Spain that they rely largely for their living upon the
generosity of travellers. There is, however, a protest afloat against
the _propina_, and a society has been formed in Madrid to combat the
custom of giving 'tips.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account