The Story of SevilleGallichan, Walter M. (Walter Matthew)
History
The Story of Seville
Gallichan, Walter M. (Walter Matthew)
Seville (Spain)
One of the most interesting streets of the fair is that of the
_casetas_, or pavilions of the influential Sevillians, who spend the day
in receiving guests, dancing, guitar playing and singing. The doors of
the _casetas_ are open. You can look within at the merry company. The
old folk sit around on chairs; someone clicks a pair of castanets, and a
graceful girl begins to dance. Fans are fluttering everywhere; there is
a soft tinkling of guitars. Dark eyes flash upon you, and red lips part
in smiles as the hats of _majos_ are raised. Some of the children are
dressed in old Andalusian costume, with black lace over yellow silk, and
_mantillas_ upon their dark hair. They dance to the castanets, and win
handclaps from grandfathers and grandmothers, who recall their own
dancing days of forty or fifty years ago.
There is an iron tower in the centre of the fair ground. I ascended it,
and gained a view of the bright crowd, the flocks, the prancing horses
and the waving bunting everywhere displayed. At night the avenues of
booths are illuminated with thousands of fairy lights, electric lamps
and Chinese lanterns. The fair is then thronged in every part, and
everyone submits to a good-humoured jostling. At this festive time you
must be prepared for disturbed nights. The streets are never quiet by
day or night, and there is a constant tramping up and down the stairs of
the hotels. Long after midnight one hears the revellers in the _plazas_,
singing and dancing to the clapping of hands or the strumming of
guitars.
This 'fantastic pandemonium,' as it is called by a Sevillian rhymer,
lasts for about eight to ten days. During the three days of the _feria_,
the hotel charges are doubled, and in some cases trebled. The city
profits considerably through the influx of visitors at this time, and
also during _Semana Santa_, or Holy Week, when Seville is very crowded.
Nothing can prove so instructive concerning the Spanish devotion to
ritual and religious pageant as a visit to Seville at Easter. The
processions and celebrations of _Semana Santa_ are exceedingly
interesting from the artistic and the antiquarian point of view. All the
costly vestments, the rare ecclesiastic treasures of the Cathedral, the
works of artists and sculptors, and the sacred images of Christ and the
Virgin are then displayed, in the midst of high pomp, to the adoring
eyes of the vast crowds lining the streets and filling the windows. It
is during these ceremonies that one may catch the spirit of mediævalism
still surviving in Spain. Even the religious dances of antiquity are
performed in the Cathedral before the high altar on Corpus Christi day.
The dancers are boys, sixteen in number, and they are called the
_Seises_. They dress in the costume of the reign of Felipe III.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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