The Story of Siena and San GimignanoGardner, Edmund G.
History
The Story of Siena and San Gimignano
Gardner, Edmund G.
Art -- Italy -- Siena; San Gimignano (Italy) -- History; Siena (Italy) -- History
The Abbazia di San Galgano, a long drive from the Porta San Marco, was a
Cistercian house whose monks at one epoch regularly served the Republic
as Camarlinghi di Biccherna. According to the legend, Galgano Guidotti
came hither in 1180, and on Monte Siepi, above the Merse, struck his
sword into the rock. Here he died in 1181. A few years later the Bishop
of Volterra, Ugo dei Saladini, built a round chapel over the hermitage
and founded a small house of Cistercians. This chapel still remains. The
great Cistercian monastery and abbey-church of San Galgano, in the plain
of the Merse, were built in the thirteenth century, being probably begun
in 1220 and 1224 respectively. Of the monastery, only a few ruins
remain. The abbey-church, magnificent still in its ruin, is one of the
purest and noblest pieces of Gothic architecture in Italy; it is a
typical building of the Cistercians, whose churches and convents, purer
in style and earlier in date than those of the Friars Minor and Friars
Preachers, have caught more of the true spirit of northern Gothic than
have theirs.[168]
The most famous, and perhaps still the most interesting, of all the
monastic houses in the State of Siena is that of Monte Oliveto Maggiore.
It can be reached either from Asciano, a picturesque little town with a
number of paintings of the Sienese school in its churches, or by driving
all the way from Siena by Buonconvento. Pedestrians, if they do not
intend to spend the night at the convent, should take the morning
diligence to Buonconvento, and walk down to Asciano from Monte Oliveto
in the afternoon to catch the evening train back to Siena. We drive out
of the Porta Romana, Siena gradually growing more distant behind us,
Monte Amiata rising nearer and more distinctly in front. About two miles
from Buonconvento we cross the Arbia, and then again by an old bridge
outside the gate.
The little townlet of Buonconvento itself, where Henry VII. died in 1313
and Alfonso of Calabria had his headquarters in 1480, is inclosed in
well-preserved walls of the fourteenth century, with the _balzana_ and
lion of Siena's Commune and People over the gate. In the one street,
which is practically all the place, is an old tower with armorial
bearings of generations of Podestàs. The church of San Pietro and San
Paolo, near the gate, deserves a visit for a most beautiful little
Madonna and Child by Matteo di Giovanni, over the high altar. To the
left of the altar are pictures by Sano di Pietro (the Madonna with St
Catherine and San Bernardino) and Pacchiarotti (an early work according
to Mr Berenson). There are also a frescoed Coronation of the Madonna
ascribed to Sano, on the right wall, an Annunciation with the Magdalene
and St Antony by Girolamo di Benvenuto, on the left, and a Madonna in
glory with Saints in the manner of Pacchia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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