Margaret Fuller spent the summer of 1843 on the lakes, and left
a charming account of her impressions. Chicago she found rather
commercial, “with no provision for the student or the idler,” but she
recognized its commanding position. “There can be no two places in the
world more completely thoroughfares,” she says, “than this place and
Buffalo.” They were to her two correspondent valves that opened and
shut all the time, as the life blood rushed from east to west and back
again. Yet, even in this business place, she saw for the first time in
her drives along the lake shore the beautiful prairie flowers of
the West. To her the most picturesque sight in all Chicago were the
lines of Hoosier wagons, in which the rough farmers who had driven
in from the country camped on the edge of the city, living on their
own supplies of provisions and seeming as they walked about the town
like foreign peasantry put down among the “active, inventive business
people” of Chicago. With the characteristically sharp contrasts of this
wonderful new land, the other sight which interested her especially was
the arrival of the great lake steamers, magnificent floating palaces
of six and eight hundred tons, which “panted in from their rapid and
marvellous journey” of a thousand miles from Buffalo. When she went
out to watch the lights of these boats as they came in at night she
heard as she walked along on one side the Hoosier dialect, on another,
cultivated French, and the very next moment the sounds of German,
Dutch, and Irish. Then as now Chicago was a cosmopolitan city.
Miss Fuller found the boats so comfortable that her trip to Milwaukee
was a “pleasure party.” The beautiful situation of this town on a
bluff eighty feet above Lake Michigan made a great impression on
all visitors. If the other towns had grown up recently and rapidly,
Milwaukee could be seen in the very process. With a population of only
two thousand people, who were erecting buildings as quickly as they
could on newly laid-out broad avenues, it had received in one week
from Buffalo three thousand emigrants on their way to the interior,
not to mention the numbers which came weekly from Chicago and Ohio.
Here, as at Chicago, Miss Fuller was delighted at the gathering of
pleasant people drawn from all over the world. The great interest of
the town was in its new arrivals. Boats came and went every day, and
crowds swarmed down to the pier to meet them. The poorer emigrants who
landed were taken to rude “shantees” in a particular part of the town,
and then walked off the next morning into the country, “the mothers
carrying the babies, and the fathers leading the little children.” She
stayed only a fortnight at Milwaukee, but she declares that had she
been rich in money she might in that time have built a house or set
herself up in business, so swiftly did matters move there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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