The story of the universe. Volume 2 (of 4) : $b The earth : land and sea
History
The story of the universe. Volume 2 (of 4) : $b The earth : land and sea
Astronomy; Earth (Planet); Natural history
The wear of the sea is but little seen in such places as this, and
still less so where the coast is low and flat, and the shore is very
extensive and the water is shallow for a long distance. In fact,
on many of these flat shores, instead of erosion taking place, the
sea is adding to the land by depositing. This is particularly the
case at the entrance of great, and of many small rivers. Their mud
collects in the shallows at their mouths, and is added to by sand
and shingle, so that land grows seaward, instead of the reverse. The
seashore is then, usually, uninviting and often consists of large
mud flats. Again, in some localities, where much sand collects on
the surface of the rock forming the seashore, it may be “quick” in
many places. The rising tide gets under the sand, which suddenly
becomes like so much sand and water, and the falling tide leaves it
hard for a while. The ordinary condition of a sandy shore is either
that of a number of very slightly rounded stretches of sand, with
drainage-streams between them, or it is pretty hard, readily dug
into, and marked on the surface by ripples. The ripple-mark on sand
always strikes the observer; it represents little ripple-like waves,
wonderfully regular, and each has a ridge and a valley. They are very
lasting, but disappear on the slightest movement of the wet sand as
the tide comes in. These little ridges and valleys are not found
when the water covers the sand at a considerable depth, but they are
especially seen between high and low spring-tide limit. Such marks
can be made, artificially, with sand, for instance, on the bottom
of a large basin. If some sand is placed on the bottom, and water
be poured in, and the edge of the basin be pushed, a to-and-fro
movement of the water will occur, and it will be continued down to
the sand. As the motion ceases, the sand will be seen to collect
in ridges, side by side, and they will be perfect when the motion
stops. Motion of the sea-water in one direction over soft sand will
not produce ripple-mark well, but a slight to-and-fro movement will
do it to perfection. Infinitely more wonderful than these ripples
are the pebble beaches, for they often extend for many miles, and
have a very considerable thickness. Worn, in the first instance,
from distant rocks, born of huge bowlders, which the mighty waves
laden with rolling stones have broken down, the pebble is formed
by rolling against others, and the result of its wear and tear is
carried off in the form of sand. They travel miles and miles along
the coast with the tide, and therefore it is very common to find one
kind of rock forming the coast-line, and the shore close by having
pebbles made up of stone which is not known to be near at hand. Thus,
on the coast of South Devon, the red rocks form the coast-line;
they are sandy, and are covered in some places by a beautiful green
vegetation. The sea is often of the brightest blue, or gray, when the
sky is not much tinted with color.
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