Verona (Italy) -- Description and travel; Verona (Italy) -- History
The Library of S. Bernardino (now a boys’ school) contains a striking
fresco by Domenico Morone, which is rarely seen by the traveller though
well worth a visit on account of its individuality and interest. The
fresco--a large composition divided into three parts by classical
columns, represents Franciscan saints and dignitaries. In the centre is
placed the Madonna and Child enthroned, with numerous saints around
them, among them being the donors of the painting under the form of St
Francis and Sta. Chiara. The effect of the background, giving as it does
the idea of a distant and most lovely landscape, is beautiful, and goes
far to redeem the stiffness of outline evident in the drawing and the
awkward treatment of the figures and drapery.
Following the road which runs beside the grand wall of bastions set up
by the Viscontis, we gain a small height on which stands the church of
Sta. Trinità. On the right going up the slope is the former church of
Sta. Maria degli Angeli, now used as a college for girls of good
families, but containing no treasures of art. The little hill is known
as the “clivo del Monte Oliveto” from the Olivetan monks who came from
Vallombrosa to settle here, and to build the church of Sta. Trinità,
which was consecrated in 1117. The façade of the church is lovely, with
beautiful arches severe in their simplicity, and in the grace and
evenness of their design. In fact simplicity is the keynote of the front
and vestibule of this church, and in spite of the alterations and
restorations now going on, this characteristic has been successfully
maintained. The building is in sad need of funds, and it is easy to see
how beautiful the church could again become once many an arch, now
filled in, were opened out, and the original scheme adhered to and
executed. This scheme was symbolical as well as beautiful, for not only
is it clear that the steps which led down into the church were meant to
be so to show that man should humble himself when about to enter the
house of God, but also the right transept (the church is cruciform) has
a curved irregular shape, intended to represent the pressure made on the
cross by our Lord’s right shoulder weighing more heavily on that side of
it. There are some fine frescoes above the principal arch that have only
just been uncovered, but their authorship is unknown. The exterior of
the east end of the church is very interesting and well worth
inspecting. To arrive there one must go through a side corridor and the
sacristy, and then one comes upon as fine an apse and belfry as can well
be seen. Here is some remarkable Roman masonry with the oft-repeated
layers of “tufo,” and brick, together with dentellated work, now in
brick and now in stone, which is very effective and shows off forcibly
some carved heads placed immediately under a succession of arches. Two
shapeless and ugly windows have been opened out on both sides of the
apse, and wanton sacrilegious hands have ruthlessly broken through a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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