Verona (Italy) -- Description and travel; Verona (Italy) -- History
In the choir are some old carved walnut seats of the fourteenth century,
and in an apse is a fresco of S. Zeno with his right hand raised in
blessing. He is dressed in full episcopal robes, with a gorgeous dress
of red, edged with gold, and lined with green, and with medallions of a
particularly pretty shape studded about it. On the right hand of the
choir is a quaint Giottesque fresco of St George, with his spear through
the dragon’s head, while the Princess stands by with a look which seems
to imply that she would fain escape from knight and dragon alike did she
but know how. St George’s mantle flies in the breeze and reveals a
beautiful lining of ermine; on his shield the Cross stands boldly out on
a field of red, in harmonious keeping with the ermine-lined red cloak.
The steed stands quietly by, and shows no apparent concern at the way in
which his hind legs are encircled with coils of the dragon’s body.
Another fresco close by represents the raising of Lazarus, where most of
the spectators hold their noses, remembering evidently Martha’s caution
as to the four days that her brother had spent beneath the sod! This
fresco which is Byzantine in character is supposed to date from the
eleventh century. Of the same, or maybe even an earlier date is a statue
of S. Zeno, where his face is painted black (to remind us of his Eastern
origin) and having a fish attached to his pastoral rod, a token of his
profession as a fisher of souls.
Opening out from the church on the left hand side are the cloisters, of
striking and original beauty. They were built in the twelfth century,
and consist of twisted columns of red Verona marble, cut from a single
block, and ingeniously held above and below by
[Illustration: CLOISTERS, S. ZENO MAGGIORE]
short pieces of marble. These were not added for the purpose but cut,
together with the columns, out of the one solid bit of marble which
served to form the whole. On the further side from the church the arches
open out into a square form of arcading, the pillars here being larger
than those of the actual cloisters. They were supposed to have stood
round a sort of lavatory used probably by the monks either for
themselves or for the vessels they required for their service.
Some fine tombs are placed here in the cloisters, resting on brackets on
the wall, and belonging to the great families of Verona. There is a
quaint saying as to some of these families that lie buried here, and
that declares that they were: “Bevilacqua, che mai la bevero; Conti
Verità, che mai la dissero; Conti Giusti che mai lo furono.”
(Bevilacqua--or Drink-water--who never drank it; Counts Verită--or
Truth--who never said it; Counts Giusti--or Just--who never were it.)
This saying certainly speaks better for the wit of the Veronese (which
be it observed is known to be pithy and cutting) than for the manners of
the gentry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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