Verona (Italy) -- Description and travel; Verona (Italy) -- History
Leaving the church by a small door in the left hand corner we come into
all that is left of the first church of Sta. Maria Matricolare, from
which the cathedral actually took its name and which it retained till it
was sunk in that of Duomo. The remains of this church consist now of
only six columns with capitals of Lombardo-Byzantine style; and from
here we pass into the adjoining small church of S. Giovanni in Fonte,
which served in past times as the Baptistery. It has a magnificent
octagonal font in the centre, carved out of a single block of Verona
marble, on which a series of bas-reliefs, well worth studying, represent
in humorous and quaintly primitive carving scenes from the early life of
our Lord. Within the octagonal font is a smaller one in quatrefoil
shape, wherein the priest was wont to stand and submerge the catechumens
who presented themselves for baptism. A painting by Paolo Farinato,
representing the baptism of Christ, stood formerly over the high altar,
but has now been moved to a side wall, where other works by Giovanni
Caroto, Falconetto, and an unknown pupil of Brusasorci, are all
hung--and hung too high. Falconetto’s picture is an extremely fine one,
recalling in composition, feeling and colouring--at least, as far as can
be made out at such a distance--the school of Gian Bellini and the great
early Venetian masters.
From the little church of S. Giovanni in Fonte we turn away to the left,
and keeping always in that direction, having gone round a corner or two,
we reach the cloisters of the cathedral. They recall in some way those
of St Zeno, though not altogether similar in arrangement. Here the bases
and capitals are united, each pair as at St Zeno being cut out of a
single block, while on the side nearest the church the pillars are
double--an effect that is remarkably beautiful and striking.
[Illustration: DETAIL OF SIDE DOOR OF DUOMO, VERONA]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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