Verona (Italy) -- Description and travel; Verona (Italy) -- History
The small church of St Peter Martyr close by was once a part of the
convent of St Anastasia. It was endowed by the Knights of Brandenburg,
whom Cangrande II. summoned to his assistance in 1353, and of whom his
special body-guard was formed. Some of the portraits of these knights
can be seen in the paintings of their gracefully proportioned church,
which was also enriched by several frescoes, the most remarkable being
that of Falconetto above the high altar. This is a strange rendering
under symbolical emblems of the Incarnation: the Blessed Virgin being
seated in an enclosure with all manner of quaint beasts around her,
while the Babe descends from Heaven in a halo of light. A crucifix said
to be by Giotto, but of a far earlier date, hangs above Falconetto’s
painting, and around are other frescoes by Badile. In front of the
church of St Anastasia and at the side of that of St Peter Martyr is a
statue in white Carrara marble to Paul Veronese; designed by Della Torre
and executed by Romeo Cristiani. It was erected in 1888.
Following the Corso St Anastasia we come to the Piazza delle Erbe, the
market-place of Verona, where chatter and merry gossip together with the
sale of flowers, vegetables, plants, owls, birds, and other strange
wares go on in as picturesque and original a setting as can be found
anywhere. The whole of the
[Illustration: PIAZZA DELLE ERBE]
Piazza is spread with large white umbrellas, that look like unfinished
tents, and that contrast admirably with the sea of colour which flows
beneath, and which varies from the many tints worn by the chattering
vendors to the hues of the fruits and flowers it behoves them to sell.
In the early morning the bustle and stir is at its height; trade is
brisker than at any other time, and the life and movement then going on
give a character to the place, hardly to be imagined by those who see it
for the first time in the afternoon, when the folded umbrellas, the
silence and tidiness where all was business and animation, give no real
or correct idea of the Piazza. The historical interest which centres
round the Piazza delle Erbe is as great as its picturesque attraction.
In the days of the Romans the Forum stood here, and the shape of the
Piazza is still that of a circus, though the modern houses around have
somewhat narrowed the “periferia.” Before the Amphitheatre was built it
was here that the gladiatorial fights were held. At the northern end
stands the column of St Mark, which was placed there as has been said at
the period of the League of Cambray at the moment when Verona was
restored to the rule of Venice. It is formed of a single block of
marble, bearing aloft the winged lion, which represented for so many
years the dominion of Venice over the town of Verona. This mark of
supremacy, raised in 1524, was destroyed at the moment of “Les Pâques
Véronaises” in 1797; but in 1888 it was replaced, no longer as a sign of
thraldom or submission but a graceful homage to “the days that are no
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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