While on land the running or filtering waters restlessly pursue their
work of excavation, the tumultuous waves of the ocean impress on every
rocky shore the seal of their tremendous power. As, day after day, and
year after year, the billows strike against the cliffs that oppose their
progress, they undermine their foundations, scoop out wide portals in
their projecting headlands, and hollow out deep caverns. Here also water
appears as the beautifying element, decorating inanimate nature with
picturesque forms; and the sea nowhere exhibits more romantic scenes
than on the bold coasts against which her waves have been beating for
many a millennium. During the calm ebb tide seals are often seen sunning
themselves at the entrance of the oceanic grottoes, while cormorants
stand before them as guardians of the dark galleries beyond; the waves
murmur in softer strains, and the screeching sea-mew glides with his
silvery pinions through the tranquil air; but when the stormy flood
batters against the coast, the billows rush into the caverns, scaring
all animal life away, and no voice is heard but that of the ocean.
Our coasts abound in beauties such as these, particularly on the wild
shores of Shetland or the stormy Hebrides—
‘Where rise no groves and where no gardens blow,
Where even the hardy heath scarce dares to grow;
But rocks on rocks, in mist and storm arrayed,
Stretch far to sea their giant colonnade.’—SCOTT.
Along the coast of the mainland of Shetland and the neighbouring islets
of Bressay and Noss, cape follows upon cape, consisting of bold cliffs
hollowed into caverns, or divided into pillars and arches of fantastic
appearance, by the constant action of the waves. As the voyager passes
the most northerly of these headlands, and turns into the open sea, the
scenes become yet more sublime. Rocks, upwards of three or four hundred
feet in height, present themselves in colossal succession, sinking
perpendicularly into the sea, which is very deep, even within a few
fathoms of their base. All these huge precipices abound with caves, many
of which run much farther into the rock than the boldest islander has
ever ventured to penetrate. One of these marine excavations, called ‘The
Orkneyman’s Harbour,’ is remarkable for the circumstance of an Orkney
vessel having once run in there to escape a French privateer. Sir Walter
Scott, who visited this interesting spot, found the entrance lofty
enough to admit his six-oared boat without striking the mast, but a
sudden turn in the direction of the cave would have consigned him to
utter darkness if he had gone in further. The dropping of the sea fowl
and cormorants into the water from the sides of the cavern, when
disturbed by his approach, had something in it wild and terrible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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