The _Gueva del Guacharo_ is pierced in the vertical profile of a rock,
and the entrance is towards the south, forming a noble vault eighty feet
broad and seventy-two feet high. The rock surmounting the cavern is
covered with trees of gigantic growth, and all the luxuriant profusion
of an inter-tropical vegetation. Plantain-leaved heliconias, and
wondrous orchids, the Praga palm, and tree arums, grow along the banks
of a river that flows out of the cave, while lianas, and a variety of
creeping plants, rocked to and fro by the wind, form elegant festoons
before its entrance. What a contrast between this magnificently
decorated portal and the gloomy mouth of the Surtshellir, imbedded in
the lava wildernesses of Iceland? As the cave at first penetrates into
the mountain in a straight direction, the light of day does not
disappear for a considerable distance from the entrance, so that
visitors are able to go forward for about four hundred and thirty feet
without being obliged to light their torches; and here, where light
begins to fail, the hoarse cries of the nocturnal birds are heard from
afar.
The guacharo is of the size of the common fowl. Its hooked bill is wide,
like that of the goat-sucker, and furnished at the base with stiff hairs
directed forwards. The plumage, like that of most nocturnal birds, is
sombre brownish grey, mixed with black stripes and large white spots.
The eyes are incapable of bearing the light of day, and the wings are
disproportionately large, measuring not less than four feet and a half
from tip to tip. It quits the cavern only at nightfall, especially when
there is moonlight; and Humboldt remarks that it is almost the only
frugivorous nocturnal bird yet known, for it does not prey upon insects
like the goatsucker, but feeds on very hard fruits, which its strong
hooked beak is well fitted to crack. The horrible noise made by
thousands of these birds in the dark recesses of the cavern can be
compared only to the wild shrieks of the sea-mews round a solitary bird
mountain, or to the deafening uproar of the crows when assembled in vast
flocks in the dark fir-forests of the North. The clamour increases on
advancing deeper into the cave, the birds being disturbed by the torch-
light; and as those nestling in the side avenues of the cave begin to
utter their mournful cries when the first sink into silence, it seems as
if their troops were alternately complaining to each other of the
intruders. By fixing torches to the end of long poles, the Indians, who
serve as guides into the cavern, show the nests of these birds, fifty or
sixty feet above the heads of the explorers, in funnel-shaped holes with
which the cavern roof is pierced like a sieve.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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